Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m), 2 pitches
FA: Alan Bartlett, Mike Wilson and Sam Waggoner, 1990
Page Views: 1,516 total · 6/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 14, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

I've led this route a number of times. The first pitch is around seven and a cruise. The second pitch is problematic. Small wires get you going (5.9). The problem is the crack above. I've never been able to set satisfactory pro in the lower section of the crack. Once, after climbing it, I rapped down and spent about fifteen minutes trying to solve the problem; I failed. A fall when moving up the crack (5.8) will be a serious challenge for those lower wires. A fall here could result in never experiencing a fall again.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, be sure to have small wires along.

From the top of the first pitch part, you can move about 8 feet left to a new anchor with rings atop Honky Justice (there as of late 2018).
Rap to ground from there.

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