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 ADVANCED
The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bete Noir S 
Black Toe Arete S 
Borg, The S 
Burnt Toast, The S 
Capital Outlay S 
Chuana Chavaria S 
Cold Feet S 
Datura S 
Delilah S 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 
Don't Make Me Shave You S 
It's All Gone S 
Laugh the Past Away S 
Locutus S 
Magus, The S 
Pincher S 
Resistance is Futile S 
Skank to Crank S 
Three Doubles S 
Torch & Twang S 
Tout Tout de Suite S 
Tower of Power S 
Triage S 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 

Chuana Chavaria 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009

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Description 

Chuana Chavaria ascends a mossy water-streak, and so is rather dirty by Shelf standards. There are quite a few enjoyable sections, but the inconsistent nature of the climbing combined with somewhat dirty rock detract from the experience. Begin behind an ornery thorn bush, with easy moves between the large flake & the main cliff. Things get serious at the ledge, with a nice introductory boulder problem on great water-sculpted pockets. Crimps appear where the pockets thin out, leading to a subtle scoop below a bulge. Exit the scoop by moving either right or left, to a crux encounter turning the lip of the slight bulge. Once established above the bulge, one more hidden bolt and a few easy moves lead to the anchor.


Location 

The furthest left route in the mossy pit that is the Shelf Refrigerator. Or, the next route right of "Tower of Power".


Protection 

Bolts to 2 bolt anchor. High first bolt. Stick Clip highly recommended!



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