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Sandy Corridor
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Bolt Route * T 
Chrysler Crack T 
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Chrysler Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Randal Grandstaff, Jon Martinet, 1970s
Page Views: 11,711
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Nov 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Chrysler Crack

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Chrysler Crack is a classic off-width romp located high over the Sandstone Quarry with a beautiful splitter crack in a dihedral and two featureless faces. In the first half of the climb you can choose to lieback the crack or employ off-width jamming and in the second half the crack is wide enough to chimney. Walk off left.


Approach from Sandstone Quarry as per Sandy Corridor description. Hike the Corridor a couple hundred yards until you're about 30 yards from the end of the canyon. You'll see a (mostly dead) left-leaning pine tree. Go right here to a robbers den that pinches off into a narrow slot. Break right and up to ledges, past occasional easy fifth-class moves for about 150 feet until you arrive at the base of the climb.


There is no fixed protection on this route. Bring armloads of big cams and big bros - Camalot C4 #5 and Big Bro #3 didn't cut the mustard.

Photos of Chrysler Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Russ using a textbook foot stack near the crux
Russ using a textbook foot stack near the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Molina on Chrysler Crack 5.9 Jan 2012  mattk...
Jason Molina on Chrysler Crack 5.9 Jan 2012 mattk...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shayne Durfee leading this huge gash, great climb!...
Shayne Durfee leading this huge gash, great climb!...
Rock Climbing Photo:  Is this a high end version of a Dodge? Shayne Dur...
Is this a high end version of a Dodge? Shayne Dur...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me in the last few feet.  Russ photo.
Me in the last few feet. Russ photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Russ racking up.  Note the custom 8" wide Hex...
Russ racking up. Note the custom 8" wide Hex...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron in a rest spot after the crux. Its easy from...
Aaron in a rest spot after the crux. Its easy from...

Comments on Chrysler Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 30, 2015
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 27, 2008

fun fun fun and a must-do for any WideFriday. Clean rock lets you get in and wiggle around with little penalty of abrasions. Did I say Wide? Too wide for my 8.5 shoes. Basically unusable in any sort of a heel toe/foot stack or otherwise. Mystery OW techniques used to ascend upward but that's the fun of it.

If you're planning ahead bring the widest gear you've got and consider making something 9" + perhaps a drilled log with a sling?
By Russ Walling
Oct 28, 2008

Fantastic route. Something in the 9" to 12" range would be nice, but not really needed. I would suggest not falling if at all possible.

Additional info:
By marc rosenthal
From: Canyon Lake, TX
Oct 29, 2008

Looks like it would be arm bars and knee smears, although the foot stack is pretty cool.
By smassey
From: CO
Apr 19, 2010

Takes gear from a 6 Camalot to a 5 Bro, plus a small wire or two if you want. Unless you want to wedge yourself in the crack and belay, bring a few blue and yellow metolius, maybe a .75 camalot.
By adam winslow
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

#6 C4 is the smallest big piece, 2 #4 bros was nice, having a #3 bro too would have been even nicer, #5 bro was unnecessary but fun to play with, a couple smallish cams for the crack in the back wall near the top (difficult to place), and a small nut for a TR directional just before exiting the crack made this an exciting but safe lead. This was my first true offwidth lead, HIGHLY recommend leading this climb!
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

an absolute classic and must do for anyone who likes the WIDE. And, for an added bonus, there's a 5.ridiculous right next to it thats a fun TR after abusing your body in the big stuff- .11ish tech to a ridiculously hard crux that is probably not even possible.
By smassey
From: CO
Mar 24, 2011

At least the drill dust has finally washed off from that. Now all the great photos of Chrysler will have a line of (well-camo'd) bolts in the frame. Well, at least thanks for the fixed line. It makes getting up there just a matter of batmanning up the line. It is desperately hard, so I guess that means something, to someone. For those of us who don't climb 5.13 slab, it just obscures the view from one of the best 5.9 cracks in RR. Cheers.
By blakeherrington
Apr 5, 2012

Has that sport route to the right even bent sent? Massive lockoffs from 1/2 pad edges that would seem to grow sandier and sloppier over time.
By Wally
From: Denver
Oct 23, 2012

This line faces north - great to do on a hot day. The gear beta here is good. No longer need to bring gear for the belay, as there are two bolts on the summit and also an anchor at the top of the route.

Great line!
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 6, 2013

Did this route June 6 in 100 degree weather and it was in the shade all day. We made our own anchor to the left instead of using the bolts out to the right, as they were too far onto the ledge. My first offwidth, and it was quite an experience!
By Action in Solitude
Dec 15, 2013

Matt Kuehl on Chrysler Crack and other offwidths in Red Rock Canyon.

By Sean Stoops
From: Henderson, NV
Oct 14, 2014

Tips on approach, anchor, descent:

- If you plan to lead it, the standard approach is alright. You'll have a couple 5th class moves for about a body length, but not terrible. Or consider Tyson's approach in the link below which takes you to the summit, then rap to the base using the bolts on top.

- If you plan to top rope it, definitely consider doing the approach Tyson mentions in the link below then rapping into the base. Getting to the top via the walk off left is very sketchy and exposed. Matt mentions in the below forum about going around right from the base of the route. I briefly looked over there briefly and it didn't look possible, but maybe I missed something.

- There is a two-bolt anchor with chains and biners on top. They are about 10 feet back from the edge. Use a cordalette to extend over to the edge.

- Descending is simple. Go right from the base down a small ramp to a flat spot, then locate the rap anchor behind the bush. Rap to the bottom of the canyon.
By Justin Hernandez
Mar 30, 2015

This is a great climb that appears to be in the shade all hours of the day.

I would like to clarify some details on the approach because I'm absolutely terrible with following directions, and sharing information can only help others save time:

1) From the parking lot, hike north on the trail until you can veer right into the Sandy Corridor. Weave past trees and bushes until the corridor narrows and you're stepping on rocks past small (dried up) puddles.

2) The corridor will widen and you will meander upwards, first on a giant red slope of rock and back around trees. Your exact approach here does not matter; the corridor will cinch down into a narrow path once more.

3) As soon as you make it over this second narrow pinch, you will see the "left leaning (mostly dead) pine tree". It is HUGE and hangs nearly parallel to the ground and completely blocks your path. As soon as you see it, look to your right. There is a small path upwards underneath some trees/bushes for you to scramble up.

4) At the top of this path you'll see the entrance to the "robber's den that narrows into a pinch." Do not go inside. Instead, look to your right and climb the easy ledge. From this platform, if you walk West towards the end of this ledge, you can see the top of the Chrysler Crack in the distance (the arĂȘte on its right has a distinct profile resembling a lion's face).

5) From this platform, facing the crack (west), you do some 4th class moves over the ledge to your left. There are two bushes on this ledge; the bush to the right appears to have more positive holds.

6) On this next ledge there is a large platform you can get on from the left or right side. To climb the next ledge you want to get in the middle of that platform and step on obvious features and follow a crack up. From here, walk up sloping formations westward until you arrive at the base of the climb.

7) From this approach, facing the base of the climb, one can veer left and go clockwise around the crack and hike to the top of the climb. I have no beta for this but this is the direction I've seen others approach the top.

WALK OFF: Rappel from anchors right of the dihedral, or downclimb and come back the way you came.

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