Chronic Fixation 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Patrick Purcell, Patrick Munn 9/92 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Jun 6, 2007 |
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Graham McDowell starring down the anchors trying t...
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Description Chronic Fixation is one of the few "warm-ups" for the harder routes of this cliff. It tackles the short, but stout face 150 feet to the left of Kingdom Come.
Off the deck, engaging moves lure the climber to either side of the first two bolts, then the route sends the climber groping for positive patina along the sloping rails riddling the face. The final crux comes right below the anchor with a painful series of crimps and gastons. The route doesn't let up until you've clipped the anchors.
Location At the apex of the hiking trail to the cliff is a large, black detached block leaning against the cliff with a dirty crack running up the middle of it. Chronic Fixation is the line of bolts to the left of this block.
Protection five bolts.
| Comments on Chronic Fixation |
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By Rafiki
Jun 10, 2007
| One of my favorite sport climbs on the most impressive face in Keene Valley. Surprisingly..most of the holds on this route are pretty big, but it saves the best moves for last. |
By Mitch Hoffman
From: Fonda NY
Jul 19, 2010
| An awesome climb, but beware of the heat! This wall is east/southeast facing and black, making it an oven in the summer time. |
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