2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This particular rock is 1-2 pitches in length and has perhaps a dozen lines which date back at least to the 1980s. There are mixed bolt/naturally protected lines here, but they tend to be runout for the average climber. Dan Hare, a prolific local climber, has developed most, if not all, of the lines here. This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon section.
Apparently, there are routes including Steel Blue 5.11 R and Acrophobia 5.10 X done on the early eighties by Dan Hare et al. here.
You can refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. There are 2 possible approaches:
1) Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & left of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents. Once you cross the stream, you go back towards the parking and hike up to the upper rock above Boulder Falls East (the rock on the opposite side from the tourist trail to the falls). This rock is split into upper & lower buttresses.
2) You can approach this from below by getting to the opposite side of the stream below the falls. You can hike/scramble/climb up and around the right side of Boulder Falls East (see above) to gain access to the rock up & right . Be careful if you choose this approach. See approach info for Lower Boulder Falls.
For some reason we chose to lead Cold-Rolled Steel the other day, and that was exciting! Kind of dirty and lots of lichen right now, but pretty cool slab climb. Way stiffer than other climbs of the grade I've climbed lately in Boulder Canyon.