|East Gate Buttress
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Starts off with a thin, almost vertical slab past a couple chicken heads to a roof. More steep slab climbing past the roof on sharp holds that leads to a thin crack. The climbing backs off a bit before traversing to the right towards the anchors. Make a reach into a little corner and make a awkward move to the anchors. Quality rock with cool sustained moves.
Between Narrow Horizons and Bald Headed Babies. Its the line of bolts that climbs through the left side of the roof.
8 or 9 bolts and a tcu. A nut is nice to make the final move to the bolted anchors.
Nov 7, 2009
The anchors could use some chains. There are 2 or 3 routes that share this anchor and the webbing has seen better days. Next time I will bring some chain if someone hasnt done it.
Nov 8, 2009
true. It would be easy to ASCA all of these anchors from that middle tier. Chris told me he drilled the entire thing on lead with a hand drill. Makes for some interesting clipping. This whole area is really fun and although this is supposed to be one of the 'easier' lines, the quality can't be denied. I found it plenty hard.