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> Fern Gully
Christa's Revenge
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 22
votes
Routes in Fern Gully
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Christa's Revenge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dog-Legging T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fern Gully T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rampage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Between, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tools of Moss Destruction S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Neil Kirk, Erine Nomeland 1993 |
| Page Views: | 995 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Bobby Hanson on May 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This route is on the right-hand side of the wall, up the obvious hand-sized cracks, past a large tree.
The start is on a ledge (dirty), and traverses left into the cracks.
The direct start takes a thin crack straight up, and meets the action at the ledge (5.8). This is the better start.
Another route (Rampage, 5.8) traverses left on the rounded ledge about 2/3 of the way up, passing a bolt and up to the top of Fern Gully. This variation seems quite contrived, and isn't really all that interesting compared to Christa's Revenge.
The start is on a ledge (dirty), and traverses left into the cracks.
The direct start takes a thin crack straight up, and meets the action at the ledge (5.8). This is the better start.
Another route (Rampage, 5.8) traverses left on the rounded ledge about 2/3 of the way up, passing a bolt and up to the top of Fern Gully. This variation seems quite contrived, and isn't really all that interesting compared to Christa's Revenge.
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