Chris Hassig's Memorial Route  5.10 R

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Bradley White and Ryan Barber, 2011 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Aug 2, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The dike gully that is the winter ice climb 'K9' done by Chris Hassig now has a sport route on the wall right of the gully. The climb has not been cleaned yet. We ascended it lichen covered. It begins by a boulder problem. When the dike is dry a (5.5) start can be done. Otherwise the center of this grey rock can be done at (5.8). After the 10ft boulder problem the grade drops to (5.4). So the first bolt is twenty feet up. That is the (R) section. The remainder of the climb is (PG). Climb directly up past the bolts until able to move right onto ramp (5.9). There is a cammed into place 5lb rock you'll climb pass. It's solid for now. At this section your belayer can move around right out of the way of this boxed in gully. Belaying at the top of this boxed in gully is very much not recommened and wearing a helmet is recommened. Getting unto the ramp is tricky and the ramp is easier. Ramp ends at the ceiling. There is a large block within the ceiling. Getting over the block and past this ceiling is the 10ft crux. There are two possibly loose rocks left of this giant block. You'll be way off route. Don't touch them because if they are loose you'll likely kill your belayer and other climbers below. After the ceiling to the right is a foot ledge and there are three bolts for rappel. I'll clean the route of its lichen. The lichen on the lower section is slippery and the upper lichen covers a climber with black crumbs. I didn't get the ceiling crux because I wasted my arms putting in two bolts on the lead and pushing loose flakes above the block into its reccesses. Ryan's ceiling lead was done by hang dogging the (5.10) crux and I held onto slings to clip on the lower section. It's an exciting climb. If the (5.10) section can not be done by someone you can lower off the two bolts below the block. I tried to do a rope solo of it and retreated after the first bolt placement. The rest was rappel bolted except for two bolts done on the lead.

Location 

Begins on the grey wall right of the boxed in gully.

Protection 

10 bolts and four of the ten are for rappel purposes. A number (2.5) friend can be placed before the first bolt although you'll won't get to this placement until twenty feet up. Medium cam trad gear can be placed below the block. Rappel anchored.