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 ADVANCED
Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)
Select Route:
Chouinard Special T,S 
Claustrophobia Crack T 
Cornflakes T,TR 
Dirty Dishes S 
Friction Slab T 
Initiation Crack T 
Just for Kicks S 
Lieback, The T 
Top Out T 

Chouinard Special 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,402
Submitted By: mtoensing on Jun 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Start off in the dihedral with the hand sized crack (15 feet left of the start of the Lieback). Jam this to a ledge (5.7), then clip the first bolt. The ledge has an anchor on it but keep climbing. Climb up the slab on whatever micro edges you can find to the next bolt. There are 5 bolts on the face to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Admin's Note: there is also a second pitch of runout face climbing that leads to a higher bolted belay anchor.


Location 

The first dihedral route to the right after hiking up the trail--Starts just 15 feet to the left of the Lieback.


Protection 

Some wires and hand sized pieces for the start dihedral which is about 40 feet long. Then some QD's for the face. 70 meter rope needed for this route, a 60m WILL NOT get you to the ground.



Comments on Chouinard Special Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 16, 2009

Originally rated 5.8 X. Subsequently, four lead bolts were added to protect what had been a 30 foot runout on the first pitch.

By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Dec 28, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb. The slab above the crack is classic. Perfect little edges. Just keep moving!