||Trad, 15 pitches, 1400', Grade V
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||FA: 1962 Yvon Chouinard and T.M Herbert FFA John Long, Pete Minks, Erik Erickson 1976|
|Page Views: ||8,845|
|Submitted By: ||S. Stember on Aug 19, 2008|
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P1: 5.6 Climb up easy steps on the left edge of the Flying Buttress. Bolted Anchor.
P2: 3/4th class ramp. Link first two Ps by simul-climbing. Two Bolts
P3: 5.8 Chimney
P4: 5.8 Hand crack. Move out onto the front of the pinnacle. Link P3 and 4 with a 60M rope.
P5: 5.10C From the top of the pinnacle, move right off a ledge towards a vegetated crack. Clip several pins on your way upwards. Bolted Anchor.
P6: 5.11B Move right on some 5.9 slab towards a corner system with pitons in it. Move up 5.11B l/b or C1 for about 25 feet. Bolter anchor.
P7: 5.10A Many pitons. Mantle and l/b a very enjoyable face below a left angling and facing crack system.
P8: 5.10A Move up 1-2 inch crack system (careful, loose rock) and move right over several blocks and ledges. Bolted anchor.
P9: 4th class move right for awhile then left when terrain allows.
P10: 5.9 Climb towards obvious pillar. The right side of the pillar is splitter hands (easy) and will leave you at an anchor with one bolt and one piton (ackward belay). Link P9 and 10 with a 60M rope.
P11: 5.11A Off the pillar, climb the strenuous 5.8 OW crack to a roof. 5.11A. Move upwards to another short roof. 5.10+. Bolted anchor.
P12: 5.11C or C1 Afro-Cuban Flakes. Climb up a 5.10A dihedral to many pitons that traverse to the right. When you reach a thin crack going up, continue up this crack (5.10A, airy!)to a bolted anchor.
P13: 5.8 Climb a chimney/crack system. Trad anchor.
P14: 5.4 ramp/chimney. Trad anchor/tree anchor. Link P13-14 with a 60M rope.
P15: Climb up easy crack to the summit.
Route notes: All anchors are new ASCA bolts, most have two bolts some have just one with a piton to back it up. This is a top-notch route that has great climbing in the middle. The approach pitches and last couple are less than amazing, but the heart of the route is phenomenal.
Start up the Four Mile Trail for about a mile, then 30 meters before the first creek, find a climbers trail on the right side (south) of the trail. Scramble upwards following the climbers trail for about 10-15 minutes until you reach an obvious ramp. Leave any extra gear (backpacks, water, etc) here. Continue up the 2nd class ramp, with occasional exposure, until you can look up and see the Chessman Pinnacle. From here choose the easiest looking approach towards the pinnacle. The terrain is 4th/easy 5th so roping up is a good idea. A rope length will bring you to the base of the pinnacle. Now, the actual climbing begins.
Double set of Cams #.3-2 camalot, one #3
Supplement alients for camalots, they are very useful on most pitches for pin scars
1 set of nuts (optional)
15 draws (some quick draws, some trad draws)
Pitch 11 or so. Maybe the best pitch on the route....
Pitch 5 lined with a bunch of old pins that have t...
P11, stellar 5.8+++ OW climbing
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Aug 25, 2008
I'm almost wondering if you missed something...maybe you climb a varation???
No mention of the Afro/Cuban flakes? That pitch is at least 5.11c and not mentioned.... This description is off.
By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 27, 2008
I definitely missed something. Initially I only had time to post up to P11 and decided to come back to it when I had more time. Now the description is accurate, complete, and up to date. Thanks for the concern.
Jun 12, 2012
Would love to see a legit description of this route if anyone has got one.
By Drew R.
From: Denver, CO
Aug 4, 2012
Did this route on Jul 31 2012. Fantastic climb. I found the description by Stember to be basically accurate.
The left of two belay bolts at belay 6 (top of .11b/c layback) was loose. It is a new good bolt (rawl 3/8) and I was able to tighten it a bit by hand, but somebody needs to take a wrench and snug it up a bit.
By B Collet
May 20, 2013
I did this route this last weekend and thought it was awesome. The approach to the first pitch is ambiguous and the descent is involved, but the climbing makes it worth it. I ended up leading every pitch. The cruxes are bouldery and not super sustained. I thought the pitch below the Afro-Cuban flakes was the crux, as it is the most sustained bit of climbing (the actual moves over the roof aren't too bad, but you have to continue on through 5.10d climbing above). Pulling over the AC flakes isn't that bad and there are good right handholds on the face you can crimp while your left hand is in the crack. Lots of fixed pins, gear is good at the cruxes and the pitches go pretty fast.