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Chouinard Becky Route
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | John McMullen, Kyle Copeland, Mark Hurt, Allison Sheets, ~1985 (yet Fred Becky and Yvon Chouinard, August 1961 (per Elaho Pub Bugaboos guidebook)?) |
| Page Views: | 1,815 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Julian Smith on Apr 16, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The Chouinard Becky Route follows an interesting crack system for 3 pitches up the Rock Island. Locate a crack going up to a slab with a bolt. This should be to the left of a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch 1. Climb the crack to a slab with a bolt. Work left to another crack and up through more discontinuous cracks to a ledge. Either belay low on the ledge or climb up to the top of the next block and belay.
Pitch 2. Climb the wide-ish corner to a very strenuous crossover to a crack system on the right. This is the crux. Continue up the crack and belay.
Pitch 3. Continue up the run-out slab or step right and climb an easier crack.
Descend off the backside working down hill to climbers right. Easy terrain leads back to the base of the climb. This route is a little off the beaten path but is definitely worth climbing. Expect the rock to be a little dirty due to the East and Northeast exposure.
Pitch 1. Climb the crack to a slab with a bolt. Work left to another crack and up through more discontinuous cracks to a ledge. Either belay low on the ledge or climb up to the top of the next block and belay.
Pitch 2. Climb the wide-ish corner to a very strenuous crossover to a crack system on the right. This is the crux. Continue up the crack and belay.
Pitch 3. Continue up the run-out slab or step right and climb an easier crack.
Descend off the backside working down hill to climbers right. Easy terrain leads back to the base of the climb. This route is a little off the beaten path but is definitely worth climbing. Expect the rock to be a little dirty due to the East and Northeast exposure.
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