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BETA PHOTO: Four climbers about to start the second pitch
Pitch 1: 5.6 Follow the nice finger/hand crack up to a bolted anchor. Pass the anchor and head up the slab 7 meters until you reach another anchor. There is a bolt half way up the slab section, reducing the chance of a ground fall.
Pitch 2: 5.8 Following the thin flake to your right and up. You will encounter two pitons and two bolts in this section. Here a few smaller pieces will do you good. Very unstable flake in the last 1/3 of the pitch. Try to avoid stepping on at all costs.
Pitch 3: 5.6 At the anchors rock over, above the tree, to the natural crack line. Here it is super cruiser with plenty of opportunities to throw in gear.
Pitch 4: 5.8 44 meters of wonderful climbing. This is a great section of the climb offering great movement and beautiful rock. Follow the right facing crack to a cave area. Once your in the cave area you can clip a bolt, use a long runner, and traverse right. Here you are just below two amazing matching hand cracks. Follow this up 10 meters until you reach the mushroom head belay.
Pitch 5: 5.8 This section of the route starts with 7 meters of chimney climbing, hard to protect unless you have big gear, or look in the back of the chimney for better spots. Follow the chimney up until it thins out and you can get great hand jams. Following this section leads you to the East summit of the rock.
Located just North of the "Grand Slab." Follow the base of the buttress North about 100 meters and you will soon notice the beautiful finger/hand crack. Descending is quite easy, as there are bolted anchors everywhere. I usually haul up another rope to make things quicker, but you could manage with one 60 meter rope.
A single set of cams and smaller nuts would do you just fine on this route. There are a few bolts and pitons in the thin, hard to find placement, sections.
Oct 12, 2013
Pretty sure there is a bolt halfway up the slab section of the first pitch
By Karl Heine
From: Fairbanks, AK
May 24, 2014
The flake on pitch 2 felt extraordinarily insecure at the end of May 2014. Pitches 4 and 5 are absolutely fantastic climbing.