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South Faces
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Choss to Treasure 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,146
Submitted By: TravisMelin on May 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Mr Mix.
No longer private property. See below.

Description 

Head up the slab through some loose rock, some neat moves lead you into the small overhang on positive holds. After pulling over the small roof head out and left though the crux to gain a rest ledge...After clipping the next couple bolts you can either move out to the exposed arete (5.10/11), or head up direct(desperate feeling 5.12ish).


Protection 

12 bolts to chain anchors.



Photos of Choss to Treasure Slideshow Add Photo
Cold day late fall of 2006
BETA PHOTO: Cold day late fall of 2006
Mr Mix.
Mr Mix.
Ellen getting after it.
Ellen getting after it.
Comments on Choss to Treasure Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 8, 2012
By Dobbe
May 11, 2009

This is thing is long and has some good moves and two crux's. The top is a hard sequince that ends in a nonrewarding long reach for the chains on small feet. If your over 6 foot Maybe the reach will not be so bad. Still one great route!!

By Tradoholic
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

FYI, this is the first route you come to after passing "Best Jams" and the Amphitheater Wall.

By waxisgood
From: Milwaukee, WI
Jul 31, 2010

what a beautiful line. can't ask for too much more. it really doesn't feel like moves i've felt in WI. super fun and relaxing moves with two cruxes. wonderful exposure at the top.

By J.Flunker
Oct 1, 2010

Watch for loose rock on the first half of this climb!
I dislodged the brick sized pinch/foothold at the lip of the first roof which subsequently collided with my belayer's hip 25 feet below. No injuries miraculously, but if this had been a head shot many stitches would have been involved.

  • **Wearing a helmet while belaying may actually be cool if it helps to avoid skull fractures/scalp lacerations!

By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nice route with two cruxes separated by a sit down rest. A large right hand side pull under cling broke off as my partner was climbing the lower crux (helmet not a bad idea for the belayer.) He thought it might be a touch harder with the broken hold. Going to the anchors looks somewhat unfathomable without chalk. But a long reach brings you to some good crimps. A long enjoyable route!

By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The huge sidepull flake system at the fifth bolt is probably going to brake off. As you move past you can feel it flex. Might be a good idea to pry it off so that there is not the potential for the belayer to get hit with a 50 plus pound rock. Any thoughts on this?

By J.Flunker
Nov 13, 2010

Lets keep the flake. Maybe some epoxy behind it would help...

By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Dec 25, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I agree with John, please don't pry off the most memorable feature on this route.

By Tradoholic
Aug 4, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I used the flake in question but I didn't feel like breakage was imminent. Let nature take its course, if it breaks, it breaks. Great sequence through there.

Up and right of the chains is a nice clipping jug.

By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I think this route, and the many other unknown routes as CR, deserve to be named. How about "Choss to Treasure" for this one?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 9, 2011

Keep 'em coming.

By Tradoholic
Nov 8, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Tough finish on this one, most will find themselves on small crimps staring at the chains and unable to clip, do a few more moves for that clipping jug and enjoy the view! Remedy and Kingdom Come are better climbs however.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Awesome endurance route! Get it all back at the rest and fire the top crux to the chains.