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Slickrock Buttress
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Choss For Your Kitten Mittens 
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Choss For Your Kitten Mittens 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jon Fike, Lindsey Hamm, NM, and Liz Schmohl, 3/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 321
Submitted By: Captain Choss Sauce on Apr 24, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: A view from the pitch 2 belay. Lucas is in red and...
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Description 

This is a stellar adventure route with some loose sections in the middle. Follow a splitter crack system through bulges and a spectacular triple roof crux. Be sure to bring your wide gear and trad anchor skills. There are no bolts on the route. It is a bit sandy, but after a few more ascents, it could be a real classic!

Pitch 1 - start up the ever steepening hand crack the widens from #1 to #3 Camalot. Pull through a couple bulges and a tricky pod section with loose rock. Set up gear belay on sloping ledge at base of gully. 5.10-, 150 feet.

Pitch 2 - carefully jam and stem up loose gully to a large terrace. It is possible to set up an intermediate belay here. Continue up short bombay crack leading to triple roofs. The middle one is wide and takes old #4 or new #5 Camalots. Pull through final roof past chockstone and continue up splitter #3 hand crack. Mantle up to a ledge and climb short chimney section to rim. Belay on trees. 5.10, 180 feet.


Location 

Start at base of lichen-covered, left-facing corner on right side of buttress. Hopefully there will be sporting a plaque soon?

Descent - walk south off the rim (climber's right) and eventually traverse back under the cliff to the start.


Protection 

Doubles from #0.5 to #5 Camalot with extra hand-sized pieces and possibly another #5.



Photos of Choss For Your Kitten Mittens Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up pitch 1 on the first ascent. <br /> <br />Photo by Lindsey Hamm.
Starting up pitch 1 on the first ascent.

Photo by...
Feeling surreal after topping out on the rim. <br /> <br />Photo by Lindsey Hamm.
Feeling surreal after topping out on the rim.

Pho...
Pitch 2 crux.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 crux.
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By Captain Choss Sauce
From: Durango, CO
Apr 24, 2013

The PG-13 rating is mostly for loose rock and runouts through first bit of pitch 2. Should be back soon to trundle some stuff. First belay is somewhat protected from rockfall, but heads up and definitely bring helmets.