This is a stellar adventure route with some loose sections in the middle. Follow a splitter crack system through bulges and a spectacular triple roof crux. Be sure to bring your wide gear and trad anchor skills. There are no bolts on the route. It is a bit sandy, but after a few more ascents, it could be a real classic!
Pitch 1 - start up the ever steepening hand crack the widens from #1 to #3 Camalot. Pull through a couple bulges and a tricky pod section with loose rock. Set up gear belay on sloping ledge at base of gully. 5.10-, 150 feet.
Pitch 2 - carefully jam and stem up loose gully to a large terrace. It is possible to set up an intermediate belay here. Continue up short bombay crack leading to triple roofs. The middle one is wide and takes old #4 or new #5 Camalots. Pull through final roof past chockstone and continue up splitter #3 hand crack. Mantle up to a ledge and climb short chimney section to rim. Belay on trees. 5.10, 180 feet.
Start at base of lichen-covered, left-facing corner on right side of buttress. Hopefully there will be sporting a plaque soon?
Descent - walk south off the rim (climber's right) and eventually traverse back under the cliff to the start.
Doubles from #0.5 to #5 Camalot with extra hand-sized pieces and possibly another #5.
Starting up pitch 1 on the first ascent.
Feeling surreal after topping out on the rim.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 crux.
|By Captain Choss Sauce|
From: Durango, CO
Apr 24, 2013
The PG-13 rating is mostly for loose rock and runouts through first bit of pitch 2. Should be back soon to trundle some stuff. First belay is somewhat protected from rockfall, but heads up and definitely bring helmets.