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This less-traveled route is fantastic. Stick clip the high first bolt and choose either the easier flake start or the crimpy direct start added by Doug Reed in '88. Climb through a couple of desperate reaches (maybe a dyno) past bolts and gear to a slightly runout section at top. Clipping the chains will make you feel like a badass!
Definitely a bit harder if you're under 5'9 (although that could be said about a lot of routes at the New)
Starts at the flake around the corner from Will to Power
4 bolts, gear
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jul 14, 2013
Full value 5.12, I definitely agree with the b/c rating on here. If you stick clip, the only gear you need would be maybe a yellow tcu between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Opportunity for big falls, but totally safe. The direct start adds a really fun, hard reach move.
By David Barbour
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 15, 2013
I placed a yellow C3 and I think a green or red also.
Jul 22, 2013
This is surely one of the best of the grade at the NRG. There is one move that is decidely harder than the rest of the moves. At 6' even this fully dynamic move required the majority of my span length. I was just barely able to keep my left foot planted. I spent two days trying this move and had about a 5% success rate on the move. Then I tweaked my positioning a bit and I was able to hit the move easily. I haven't had to put this much work in on a 5.12b for years, but I enjoyed every minute of it. I'm really curious how shorter people do this move.