Chopping Block  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 110 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  John and Greg, 4/07 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Rob Dillon on May 19, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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What's It Like? 

A matrix of sharp flakes leads to a stembox, capped with a groin vault-shaped roof. The vault is escaped via a fat-finger crack for a few more meters of straight-in cranking.

From the creepy name, to the percussive flakes, to the tottering pillar forming the right side of the stembox, the Chopping Block experience feels a bit heads-up. Nonetheless, it's a worthwhile route, with protection in generally good rock where you need it, so the competent desert climber should not be deterred. Kind of a tower experience: fun climbing on big features with a high Indiana Jones factor.

Where? 

The Chopping Block is located on the far left side of the OMW, maybe 50 yards past the unnamed left-facing hands corner that starts off the pillar. Immediately right of 'The Mayor's Route', both of which are (currently) placqued.

What to stick in it 

Doubles should do ya fine, with a big piece or two for the wide crack running alongside the stembox. Med-lg. nuts down low if you got 'em. Save (2-3) .5 Camalots for the topout. I'd belay to the side until this one cleans up a bit.

A 60m rope barely works; pay attention.