Chopping Block 

Aaron, The original route was never finished due to the Cerro Grande Fire of 2000. Everyone who was working on this route either got their house burned or thier lives shuffled a bit. The last hole was drilled and the bolt never got installed. The route was incomplete. I view the changing of this route without approval clueless and disrespectful. It was a fine climb the way it was and I would like to see it restored back to its original condition even if I have to do it myself. Just because your opinoin is different does not give you authority to mess with someones unfinished project. You could at least communicate first.

Scott, are you saying that the project began prior to 2000, and as of 2006 was still "unfinished"?

Is this correct?

Monomaniac, that is correct. There were several life interruptions at that time.

I think its pretty unfair to assualt Aaron for cleaning up a route that was left abandoned for six years. What is the statute of limitations on an abandoned project?

I don't think Aaron did anything wrong at all. He should be thanked for cleaning this route up.

Aaron, Thanks!

Scott-

I apologize for altering the route without contacting you, I dont think we've ever met and I sure didn't know who had FA'd this line. I am also sorry that you were affected by the fire and I understand that other things are more important than finishing a route.

I would be more than pleased to have you restore this climb to its original condition but please also consider that it is now climbed frequently by many where it was pretty much covered in dust and cobwebs prior to its retro/completion.

But consider this...

If I had put a 2-bolt route every ten feet apart at White Rock, and FA'd each line, does that mean I have claimed all the lines and no-one can later make them worth climbing ever again?

-aaron

Aaron-Apology accepted.
A bit of history: We thoroughly cleaned this route as much as we could and the last bolt was drilled but never installed due to crummy rock at the top. It was led several times in this condition, and the bottom section was fine and didn't really need to be moved. If anything, you might of kept that intact, and used your new two bolts at the bottom as a variation. At the time it was another way up to the upper tier. Nowadays due to the retro, that is not a possibility.

First time on this route and I'm really surprised to see only 1 or 2 stars for it because I thought it was excellent. Sustained at the 11a grade with a crux that my partner and I agreed was solid 11b. I'll definitely do this one again the next time I'm back in the Grotto.

Finally climbed since leaving it behind so many years ago. The climbing and rock is great up to the last bolt. Here the rock quality decreases and I found the last bolt placement to be in the middle of the redpoint crux. Best to climb past to large hold up and left to clip at your waist. Fortunately the bolt is in the better rock thus the placement should remain. Thanks Aaron for the improvements, this climb deserves more traffic.