By Mark Pell Mar 22, 2012 rating: 5.8+
| Possibly in the good-natured spirit of friendly sandbagging, this route was originally called a 5.7. It's possible a few holds may have come off over the years to make it harder but it was and still is surprisingly harder than it looks. Do not be fooled by the crack or the blocky holds on its left. This is a fairly gymnastic face climb that is primarily climbed on the right side of the crack until you move left at the top to gain the anchor. The presence of four well-spaced protection bolts along the way makes it a manageable experience for 5.8 climbers but even high-standard rock athletes will say "What the ****?" after leading this one. |