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Routes in 2. Mallo Pison & El Puro
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Alberto Rabadá o Murciana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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La Carnavalada S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Normal al Mallo Pisón S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Normal al Puro S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Via Pany-Haus T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | J. M. Ferrando, F. Caballé, F. Gutiérrez - 04 February 1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,541 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Rick Ziegler on Apr 16, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Robert Hall, Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
Polished, sustained, solid rock and stiff grades (or was it the bottle of wine the night before?). This is a true moderate Riglos classic!
Pitch 1 is 30m of fun, steep 5.9 and can be combined with pitch 2 (5.10a) using some long slings. Pitch 3 gets 5.10b, with an awkward bulge off the belay followed by brilliant, steep moves. More good climbing on pitch 4 brings us to the crux on pitch 5.
Moving right of the belay, a small bulge provides a little rest before the steep crux moves. The crux is very well protected and felt full value for "5.10d." (could be aided if necessary). Short but steep and bouldery!
Pitch 1 is 30m of fun, steep 5.9 and can be combined with pitch 2 (5.10a) using some long slings. Pitch 3 gets 5.10b, with an awkward bulge off the belay followed by brilliant, steep moves. More good climbing on pitch 4 brings us to the crux on pitch 5.
Moving right of the belay, a small bulge provides a little rest before the steep crux moves. The crux is very well protected and felt full value for "5.10d." (could be aided if necessary). Short but steep and bouldery!
Location
Starts at the far right (east) side of El Pisón. 5-10 minute walk from town. Look for the chalk line several meters left of the massive chimney that separates El Pisón from Macizo I. Sun from mid morning until sunset.
There are three descent options:
1. Rap the route (if no one is below) with 1, 70m rope.
2. Continue to the summit of El Pisón via "Chopperior" (5.11b).
3. The book describes a short rap to the saddle between Pisón and Macizo, followed by the lower half of the Pisón descent route. Can't personally comment on this but the top of pitch 5 is BELOW this saddle. It did seem possible to break right into the chimney to get to the saddle but we rapped the route instead.
There are three descent options:
1. Rap the route (if no one is below) with 1, 70m rope.
2. Continue to the summit of El Pisón via "Chopperior" (5.11b).
3. The book describes a short rap to the saddle between Pisón and Macizo, followed by the lower half of the Pisón descent route. Can't personally comment on this but the top of pitch 5 is BELOW this saddle. It did seem possible to break right into the chimney to get to the saddle but we rapped the route instead.
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