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Chopped route to the right of Atman - how to clean up the aftermath
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Apr 20, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
Hey there,

Was out on Yin and Yang yesterday and noticed what appeared to be epoxy remnant after someone had chopped the 11d route "controversy" I think it is called in the Handren guide, and quite frankly it looks bad. My question is what is the best way to clean this up? I am heading off to Michigan for work for the next six days but when I get back I would like to help clean this up, as the beautiful rock at this little crag has some obvious eyesores on it. We were back there in December and didn't notice this at all. It might not be epoxy, I just don't really know what I'm looking at all that much with this kinda stuff.

Again, I could give a damn about the route in question...bolts or not, I just want the rock to look closer to its natural state than what is pictured below.

Below are pics from yesterday:

Rock Climbing Photo: "Controversy" at Yin and Yang cliff
"Controversy" at Yin and Yang cliff

Rock Climbing Photo: Holes

Rock Climbing Photo: mo holes
mo holes
Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Joined Mar 14, 2010
726 points
Apr 20, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
Boy, somebody did a sloppy job putting those bolts in. I don't understand why people don't have pride in their craftsmanship when putting in glue-ins and not smear it all over the place and leave drips.

As far as cleaning up after it, I would see if I could carefully chip and hand grind the excess stuff away without scarring up the rock too much, then I would use a courser grained epoxy mixed with sand of the same type and color as the rock. Usually I would squirt some in the hole then jamb a little pebble in then work with the epoxy sand mixture. Use a light touch. Take a plastic bottle or bag of the sand up with you and rags to wipe your fingers and tools, little splints of strong wood work fine for the delicate working of the epoxy and topcoating with the sand. It takes a little practice and artistic temperament to do it well, but often you can get it so it is very hard to figure out where a hole was. It maybe a little hard with that mess.

I have never worked with that kind of sandstone, but maybe others will know how quickly fresh rock there will get back a natural patina. If fairly quick, then I would go with more removal of the glue and less trying to cover it up except for filling the hole.
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,870 points
Apr 20, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: South of Windy Peak
Isn't this the aftermath of the bolting controversy from 6 years ago? For a historical perspective, information on that incident can be found here:
Nasty Rumor- Bolts at Atman????
John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 2, 2002
4,295 points
Apr 20, 2013
Thats the patch job from the bolt removal. When the bolts were installed, they were installed with liquid nails and were removed without any residue or drippings from the installation.

Those involved with the removal didnt have enough patch to patch the route, so it was left for another day. Someone came in not long after- (maybe 6 months or a year) and did that hack job.

It probably needs to be painted- i dont think you can chip or grind if off without damaging the sandstone (its pretty soft rock there). Painting could be just as obvious unless it is done with great care and several colors to match. Could take an entire day.

I wish I had gotten to it before that happened- its definitely a regret.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,390 points

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