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Chopped route to the right of Atman - how to clean up the aftermath

Original Post
W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Hey there,

Was out on Yin and Yang yesterday and noticed what appeared to be epoxy remnant after someone had chopped the 11d route "controversy" I think it is called in the Handren guide, and quite frankly it looks bad. My question is what is the best way to clean this up? I am heading off to Michigan for work for the next six days but when I get back I would like to help clean this up, as the beautiful rock at this little crag has some obvious eyesores on it. We were back there in December and didn't notice this at all. It might not be epoxy, I just don't really know what I'm looking at all that much with this kinda stuff.

Again, I could give a damn about the route in question...bolts or not, I just want the rock to look closer to its natural state than what is pictured below.

Below are pics from yesterday:





M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Boy, somebody did a sloppy job putting those bolts in. I don't understand why people don't have pride in their craftsmanship when putting in glue-ins and not smear it all over the place and leave drips.

As far as cleaning up after it, I would see if I could carefully chip and hand grind the excess stuff away without scarring up the rock too much, then I would use a courser grained epoxy mixed with sand of the same type and color as the rock. Usually I would squirt some in the hole then jamb a little pebble in then work with the epoxy sand mixture. Use a light touch. Take a plastic bottle or bag of the sand up with you and rags to wipe your fingers and tools, little splints of strong wood work fine for the delicate working of the epoxy and topcoating with the sand. It takes a little practice and artistic temperament to do it well, but often you can get it so it is very hard to figure out where a hole was. It maybe a little hard with that mess.

I have never worked with that kind of sandstone, but maybe others will know how quickly fresh rock there will get back a natural patina. If fairly quick, then I would go with more removal of the glue and less trying to cover it up except for filling the hole.

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676

Isn't this the aftermath of the bolting controversy from 6 years ago? For a historical perspective, information on that incident can be found here:
??

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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