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 ADVANCED
The Trad Lands
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alan's Seam S 
Big O Flyer S 
BM Route S 
Chimney Crack T,TR 
Chopless T,TR 
Corn Flake T,TR 
Dihedral TR 
Liar Liar T,TR 
Line It Up T 
Little Ox S 
Meat is Murder T 
Mindless 
Oxymoron T,TR 
Passerby 
Resident Bush S 
Startled S 
Tootsie Roll S 
Traditions T 
Under The Table S 
Unknown T 
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 
UnNamed S 
X It S 

Chopless 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Jul 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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What a fun route.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route should never suffer the fate of the many Front Range routes vandalized by criminals who feel empowered to strip the fixed protection from routes - it has none. It takes a series of right-facing corners up the middle of the tallest buttress in the Tradland. Start on the outside face of an amorphous blob of rock at the foot of the buttress. Low angle scrambling takes you to the corners and steeper climbing. Follow the corners all the way up the buttress to the ledge and shared anchors atop "Resident Bush", "Traditions", and "CornFlake".


Protection 

Standard gear rack to a two bolt anchor with rings.



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By shad O'Neel
Jan 22, 2004

Short, interesting, but many higher quality 5.8 cracks in the neighboorhood.

By Jimn Seiler
From: North Platte, NE
Apr 29, 2007

I thought this was the best 5.8 I have done in Tradlands this far and up there with any of the top 5.8s I've done at Table. The bottom section is a little bogus, but I liked everything up top.