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Chomping at the Bit
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Far Side
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5.6 Crack S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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666 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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[Redacted] S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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A.W.E.S.O.M.- O 4000 S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Abracadabra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ahkenaten S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Anselmo Power S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arblow Hard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Arthur's Lip Service S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Lizard In My Backyard S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black is Beautiful S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blackshirts S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Centurion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chomping at the Bit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Coffee Bitch S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creepy Ass Cracker S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crow's Nest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crush of Love, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cry of Love, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Detachable Pillar Arete S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Diamarrhia Fullenkrap S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Worry, Baby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eh, Nice Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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El Lagarto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Elvis is Everywhere S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Exorcist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Facing the Animal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Far Side's Trad Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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First Class Tickets to The Resurrection S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flakeus Maximus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flakeus Minimus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flying High Again S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Get Your Wings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gila S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hume's Horror S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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I Can Smell Your Thoughts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iguana Breath S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In the Region of the Butterfly Pump S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Induction Oven S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Kidz Bop Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lizard King, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lizard of Oz S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lizard With a View S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lord of the Warlocks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mardi Gras S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mary Iguana S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mental Hopscotch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Not For Girly Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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One Ton Son S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pack Mule S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Party Hardy Tardy Marty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Portable Airplane (aka Robbin' the Hood) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ragged Ass Tinkering Cow Thieves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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RAMMESES S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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S.L.I.M.F.A.S.T. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Schindler's Pissed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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SETI S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shelfie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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So Emotional S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sympathy For The Devil S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thick as Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Holes Make A Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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To the Max Von Sydow S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Too Many Notes, Your Majesty S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tunnel Vision S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.7 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 5.8 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 7 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Velociraptor S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wedgie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Well Hung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wir Sind Die Größten S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wun Dum Fuk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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You Can't Handle The Truth S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zu den händen von Herrn Wiesenthal S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Darryl Roth? |
| Page Views: | 2,937 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Anderson on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route is located in the "Far Side" area, directly across from the Bulge Wall of Menses Prow. It is a bit out of the way for Shelf...nice and secluded. The route starts in a pit that stays nice and cool. The climbing is very straightforward and easy (5.10ish) until you reach a brutal crux boulder problem at a distinct bulge. Some tenuous moves on almost non-existant holds get you over the bulge, then the climbing eases to the chains.
This route is probably easier when it's cold. The crux relies a lot on skin friction on some sharp holds, so the warmer the weather, the softer your skin will be.
I thought the moves were easy off the hang, but linking them proved harder than I first expected due to increasingly sore fingertips with each attempt. This was rated 13b in Van Horn's books, the new Sharp End book calls it 13a, which I think is about right.
This route is probably easier when it's cold. The crux relies a lot on skin friction on some sharp holds, so the warmer the weather, the softer your skin will be.
I thought the moves were easy off the hang, but linking them proved harder than I first expected due to increasingly sore fingertips with each attempt. This was rated 13b in Van Horn's books, the new Sharp End book calls it 13a, which I think is about right.
7 Comments