Choking up on ice tools (when and when not to)
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Hey friends, |
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I'll do the same thing on most ice routes, especially if it's lower angle. I havent noticed any added instability. |
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I use the upper grip on my tools quite often when out ice climbing. Often for reach (as you mentioned, getting to a better place to swing) but sometimes I just leave my hand on the upper grip after a hand switch. |
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Hello, |
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I think it depends on the type of ice you are climbing or maybe better said as the way the ice you are climbing has formed. Usually when climbing vertical ice that is uniform the climber will never need to reach higher up on the tool after the pick has been well placed i.e. the climber just never lets go of the bottom grips (except to maybe switch hand on the tools). If the ice is chandelierd (sp?) or overhanging (with scoops or cups forming in the upward direction) it is a great advantage to grip the upper hand rest for extra reach. I grip the upper hand rest on my Nomics and Quarks alot when I am repositioning in order to place a screw for protection (eliminated the need sometimes to pull the axe out and place it somewhere else out of the way). |
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To over come bulges and such you can place an axe and climb up it, up the grips and mantle on the head. On low angle terrain you can hold the axe just below the head and place the pick, or hold the top of the axe and just use the shaft point. |
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+1 for choking up on your tools in order to overcome bulges. |
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also, rob I cant tell if your being serious or not, either way its hilarious. |
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robrobrobrob wrote:To over come bulges and such you can place an axe and climb up it, up the grips and mantle on the head. On low angle terrain you can hold the axe just below the head and place the pick, or hold the top of the axe and just use the shaft point. If the placement feels solid, move around on it, get used to feeling the different ways axes shift and move.. and with time get to understand the feelings around shearing vs. shifting. I don't know that there are rules, instead play with the idea in relatively safe settings to build up your toolbox of responses.So to summarize Rob's post, "Just play with your tool until the placement and grip feels right" |
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Here's some good info: Ice climbing techniques? |
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I do it all the time with my nomics. Cover more distance = fewer swings = climb faster, less chance of fatal pump. Despite comments above, I find this technique far more valuable on vertical ice and less so on lower angle ice where pump isn't in the equation. |
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As a technique (using different hand positions) for speed and efficency it works well any place you need to swing or hang on a tool. Best used with modern tools would be my only caveat. |