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 ADVANCED
The Thin Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 
Almost Vertical T 
Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 
Child's Play T 
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 
Congratulations T 
Conservative Policies T 
Count on Your Fingers T 
Count Your Blessings TR 
Face of Tammy Faye, The T 
No Calculators Allowed T 
Peculiar Taste Buds T 
Square Root T 

Chocolate is Better Than Sex 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, May 1988
Page Views: 1,138
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Norm on Chocolate.

Description 

This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the Thin Wall's east side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as starting in a "double crack" in the center of the right half of the wall. Climb the double crack system upward to a merge 1/3 of just to the beginning of a bulge up top, then continue up on the single crack. The jams are good, although the rock is a little poor.The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.9+, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is overgraded and this felt fair at 5.8.

Protection 

Cams and Tricams. The crack system here is flaring and rounded and has plenty of shedding crystals. Set pro carefully. This is not 'S' for an experienced leader, but is not a good lead for a beginner.


Photos of Chocolate is Better Than Sex Slideshow Add Photo
Edited photo to show damage to route/beta
BETA PHOTO: Edited photo to show damage to route/beta

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By Johnnie Lyman
May 20, 2007

This route has a tricky start for a newer leader. The moves are difficult to read and the whole climb feels a little strange.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An "R" rating? Seriously?
By Bowie
From: Portland, OR
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

R? What the heck?! Probably the easiest 9 in the park I've ever done. When you think about Pope's Crack or Touch and Go, this is a 5.8- or easier. No pro for the start for maybe 3 moves but this climb is not the least bit run-out.
By Pete Wilk
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I would also agree that this climb is not an 'R' nor a 5.9+. 5.8/5.8- is probably a fair assessment. However, the line I took was primarily to the right of the one in the beta photo.
By John Pan
From: Los Angeles, California
Mar 12, 2014

4/9/2014

A friend broke a large chunk of rock off the route from a mock lead fall onto a Cam. See added photo for description/beta.