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Chocolate flakes 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: van betten, 85
Season: shade most of day
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Jon O'Brien on Apr 24, 2011
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Description 

1. somewhat dirty, awkward 5.8 corner w spaced gear to ledge w bolted anchor. apprx. 100 ' (we used 2 ropes to rap just to be sure)

2. move up and to left to hidden chocolate face, climb flake to roof w wide crack then stay in the feature for a long time to a ledge bolted anchor. apprx. 200' 5.9 (cool pitch)

3. steep jugs to pure crack in corner w fluid, beautiful movement 90' bolted belay. 5.10d

4. work up into exposed layback, follow to offwidth and interesting move off a horizontal before it eases off and a bolted anchor. 5.10a.

last 3 pitches were fantastic!


Location 

from pine creek walk the trail. make left after old homestead and cross wash. follow up to trail that traverses magic mtns base and go right. continue until under a notch in the mtn, aim for that. we rapped the 3rd and 4th pitch w/ 1 rope and the 1st and 2nd w/ two ropes. (60 meters) the climb shares the first two pitches of cartwright corner.


Protection 

double to 3''. (i would have placed a 5'' on the 4th pitch and been happy)



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By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Cartwright pitches aren't the most horrid climbing ever, but they're below average in their own right. The first pitch of Chocolate Flakes? Stellar. Really great moves on bomber stone and quality gear. Similar feel as pitch 4 of Nightcrawler. Pitch four has a very interesting section around an offwidth/squeeze and is a heady lead. If only you could do the route without the damn approach pitches...

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jan 21, 2014

What'd you think as far as gear? Worth bringing big stuff? If Jon was wishing for it, I bet us small frys will be double puckered. How's the fixed anchor condition?

By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I took a single rack to 3", doubles of .75 and 1 Camalots, full set of nuts and my C3s. Was happy to have all of it, but you won't need anything bigger than that. I think we only placed the #3 once, on pitch 2.
The bottom two anchors could use some love: From what I remember the top of the first pitch the nuts, bolt ends, and chains are all rusty. One newer bolt and hanger, one older 3/8" with a homemade hanger. Second pitch are two completely rusted homemade hangers on bolts probably 20+ years old backed up by a good nut.
Upper two pitches look pretty good.