Chocolate flakes  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  van betten, 85 Season:  shade most of day Submitted By:  Jon O'Brien on Apr 24, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

1. somewhat dirty, awkward 5.8 corner w spaced gear to ledge w bolted anchor. apprx. 100 ' (we used 2 ropes to rap just to be sure)

2. move up and to left to hidden chocolate face, climb flake to roof w wide crack then stay in the feature for a long time to a ledge bolted anchor. apprx. 200' 5.9 (cool pitch)

3. steep jugs to pure crack in corner w fluid, beautiful movement 90' bolted belay. 5.10d

4. work up into exposed layback, follow to offwidth and interesting move off a horizontal before it eases off and a bolted anchor. 5.10a.

last 3 pitches were fantastic!

Location 

from pine creek walk the trail. make left after old homestead and cross wash. follow up to trail that traverses magic mtns base and go right. continue until under a notch in the mtn, aim for that. we rapped the 3rd and 4th pitch w/ 1 rope and the 1st and 2nd w/ two ropes. (60 meters) the climb shares the first two pitches of cartwright corner.

Protection 

double to 3''. (i would have placed a 5'' on the 4th pitch and been happy)