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Another popular moderate classic. Hike along the main Donnelly buttress north from Generic, past Binou's, and look for a beautiful thin-hands crack in a dark right-facing corner. Trample (as lightly as possible) up from the trail to the base. Start with #1 Camalot size until it pinches down slightly (#2 Friend), grunt (or panic depending on your style) through the thinness to a nice ledge on the left. Continue up the widening (starts #2 Camalot size, ends #3 Camalot size) crack to the anchors on the right.
If your hands are small this will probably be a cruise. The rest of us probably will say there's a move or two of 9+.
2-3 #1 Camalots, #2 Friend or #.75 Camalot (Friend is better for the size), a couple #2 to #3 Camalots.
|By Joe Keyser|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 19, 2001
This route was pretty thin for my meat hooks. But, short and sweet!
|By Wes Allen|
From: Lexington, KY
Mar 26, 2002
Nice route. Great stemming toward the top. The upper pitches look very cool, but way to hard for me.
|By Dan St. John|
From: Castle Rock
Sep 24, 2002
I thought this rout was harder than 5.9. As always the grade depends on hand size. I find a #3 camolt a good jam so #1 is quite insecure. 5.10-
|By Ben Mottinger|
Oct 7, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Great route, but I wish it was a little longer.
I could get pretty decent jams with my hands.
|By Max Schon|
Nov 18, 2003
The upper pitches are called Ocean Negro and go at 5.12a and 5.12c. The 5.12a is technical and reasonable, the 5.12c is just plain hard.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2004
This is a short pitch, but I once saw someone place over 15 pieces on it, thus proving that no matter how big a rack you bring to Indian Creek you can still run out of gear!
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
A fantastic easier route with impeccable rock. Perfect for smaller hands (red camalot size). Short.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 15, 2007
also, re: Ocean Negro, you can get off of it with one 70m rope. It is a bit interesting rapping from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 2; you need some directionals since it is so steep. You can get from the top of pitch two to the ground with one 70m rope, barely. Or you could just do a huge double rope rappel with two 60's or 70's to the ground from the very top.
|By Bad Sock Puppet|
May 23, 2009
Your female climbers partners should really like this one since the crack is a little small for man-hands. This one turned out to be harder for me than elephant man. Moral of the story is everything is size dependent.
|By Dan Brayack|
From: Marmet, WV
Sep 29, 2010
I swear this was harder than Mr. Peanut for me...
|By Matt Hoffmann|
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
My first route in the creek. Felt pretty damn hard for a 5.9, Generic, IHC and Blue Sun all felt quite a bit easier. Some tight hands (red c4) and smaller. A couple of good hand jams and quite a few face holds to stem and rest on. Powered through for the flash but, this was pretty humbling for my first attempt at creek climbing.
Apr 15, 2013
Short and sweet, good to eat. One of my favorites leads so far. #1 Camalots going straight up, with a couple larger and smaller pieces to place.