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Could you ask for anything more? A steep, bouldery route that has a fair mixture of bolts and gear, and climbs like a sport climb--a combination that can't be missed!
Start at the far left end of the roof, at an all-too obvious chocolate streak that extends to the roof. Climb the chocolate-covered rock to a ledge, clip a bolt, then grapple past a smallish right-facing open-book, clipping two more bolts enroute to the big ledge below the roof.
Place a #4 Camalot beneath the roof with a long runner on it, move directly up, over the roof, aiming for a bolt out right. Clip this, then make some cruxy traverse moves at first on a rail, then into a finger crack (small gear in this crack helps ease the pucker effect!), then lock off straight up to another bolt, and easier climbing.
The route ends at the large ledge with a bolted anchor.
At the far left end of The Birch Wall, below the roof at an obvious, dark, chocolately streak in the rock.
Draws, plus a #4 Camalot, and a few small pieces to a .5 Camalot-sized piece.
|By Derek Doucet|
Aug 19, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
A number 3 camalot is nice below the roof, but IMO gear is unnecessary above. By the time the 4th bolt is about 2' below your feet, you've passed the crux, and reached very good holds and easy climbing. One might place gear in this vicinity, but it's only another easy move or two to the secure final clip.
A fall on to the 4th bolt from above the crux would, without supplemental gear, be modestly long (an honest 12'-15' perhaps?), but steep and clean provided your belayer keeps the lip of the roof in mind.
A good route, and a total giveaway at the .11b guidebook rating! Flash it soon!