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 ADVANCED
Bridge Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Touch of Tango T 
Angel's Arete T,TR 
Are You An Idiot? T 
Are You Experienced? T 
Blunder and Frightening T,TR 
Butterbeans T 
Chockstone T,TR 
Dogfight T 
Dresden Corner T 
Easily Flakey T,TR 
Englishman's Crack T 
Gag Reflex T 
Handsome and Well-Hung T 
High Times T 
Horton's Tree T 
International Incident T 
Jaws T,TR 
Labor Day T 
Layback T 
Let the Wind Blow S 
Let's Get Physical T 
Marionette T,TR 
Mayfly T 
Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 
Mega Magic S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 
Penalty Situation T,TR 
Raptured T 
Strategem, The S 
Strech Armstrong (a.k.a. Ruptured) S 
Team Machine S 
Tree Route, The T,TR 
Underfling T 
Zag T,TR 

Chockstone 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Skidmore, Swift '76
Page Views: 3,143
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Pulling up into the dihedral (crux) of the Chockst...

Description 

1st piece is a little high after low crimpy moves, gain a crack system and fun moves until the crux hits when tranfering into corner after resting below roof. continue to anchors

There was a bolt right where you came out of the face and onto the corner (WHY??) it has been removed. Please, don't place another bolt here, there is great gear all around.

Orginally rated 5.7

Location 

Route that is south side of trash compactor roof, obvious splitter to corner

Protection 

takes great gear, standard rack


Photos of Chockstone Slideshow Add Photo
Sizing up my first 9
Sizing up my first 9
Michael Martin resting just before the crux
Michael Martin resting just before the crux
Chockstone and the trash compacter roof
BETA PHOTO: Chockstone and the trash compacter roof
Ladd Raine making the crux moves of this classic l...
Ladd Raine making the crux moves of this classic l...
classic route!
classic route!
TR'ing Chockstone. Fun route.
TR'ing Chockstone. Fun route.
The Improbable Chockstone
The Improbable Chockstone

Comments on Chockstone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Will Sweeney
From: Zachariah, Kentucky
May 22, 2012

This route is a must do! My first climb ever at the New and I was blown away by the quality of the rock. I've climbed a lot more in the area since and this is still one of my favorites. It doesn't look possible for this to be 5.9 from the ground but then its all there! A good piece of pro in the lower horizontal is available before the finger crack and the dihedral is really techy and fun! This route has it all!