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Camp Bird Road
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99 Problems 
Bird Brain Boulevard 
Cavegina 
Chock Up Another One 
Chockstone Chimney 
Choppo's Chimney 
Cinnamon and Cider 
Cleft, The 
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Dirty Minds 
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Skylight 
Slip Sliding Away 
Slippery When Wet 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) 
Talisman, The 
Tasty Talks 
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Wake Up Call 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene 
Weak and the Weary 
Unsorted Routes:

Chockstone Chimney 

WI3-4 R

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II
Consensus: WI3+ [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 2,940
Submitted By: sandstone on Apr 13, 2005
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Feb. '07. Bottom section.
Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is uphill from Skylight. Previously, the info had been incorrect on this route.

Walk under the first chockstone, climb a short ice bulge, continue up low angled slopes to a screw belay at the base of the larger ice bulge. Climb the steep bulge (left), or simulclimb up (right) on snow under the big chockstone. Continue until the next moderate ice bulge (the gully narrows here), where you can establish a screw belay. Climb to the top of the ice, then make a short climb/traverse trending left (on crappy rock) to a snow ramp which leads to the top. There is loose rock here, and it will get funneled onto the belayer, so position the belay wisely.


Protection 

Ice screws can be useful where the ice is fat enough. Bring rock gear.



Photos of Chockstone Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Thick ice but lots of snow make for a short climb in Chockstone Chimney on February 23, 2008. <br /> <br />Photo by Matt Newman
BETA PHOTO: Thick ice but lots of snow make for a short climb ...
Feb '07. Simulclimbing the snowy middle section. The views up through this slot are way cool.
Feb '07. Simulclimbing the snowy middle section. T...
Just so you know what it looks like under all that ice. (photo by Jayna Waters)
Just so you know what it looks like under all that...
Feb '07. The upper section. There was a short rock traverse (left) to a snow ramp after the ice ended.  Bring tricams, a small selection of cams, and be prepared for some loose rock.
Feb '07. The upper section. There was a short rock...
Beyond the big chockstone.  Upper Chockstone Chimney on February 23, 2008. <br /> <br />Photo by Matt Newman
BETA PHOTO: Beyond the big chockstone. Upper Chockstone Chimn...
Comments on Chockstone Chimney Add Comment
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By ?????
Jan 12, 2004

Second pitch is in above this climb. Mixed conditions at the top. Placement of ice screws can be tough, bring rock. Anchor at top is a bit away so be sure to bring two ropes of have a hairy long down climb.

By sandstone
Feb 14, 2007

Eds. reference to an incorrect photo:

I've posted some newer photos of what the guidebooks say is Chockstone Chimney (the old McTiernan guidebook is actually better for identifying these climbs than the newer Roberts guidebook -- that is assuming McTiernan got it right :-).

This is a fun route that is not hard. The views up and down the route (especially looking up under the big chockstone) are very cool.

Here's one way to do it (in the conditions we found). Walk under the first chockstone, climb a short ice bulge, continue up low angled slopes to a screw belay at the base of the larger ice bulge. Climb the steep bulge (left), or simulclimb up (right) on snow under the big chockstone. Continue until the next moderate ice bulge (the gully narrows here), where you can establish a screw belay. Climb to the top of the ice, then make a short climb/traverse trending left (on crappy rock) to a snow ramp which leads to the top. There is loose rock here, and it will get funneled onto the belayer, so position the belay wisely.