Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
FA: | Greg Schaffer and Rob Foster - September 1968 |
Page Views: | 1,553 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Osprey Overhang on Feb 11, 2012 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
An old climb up a massive chimney system:
Pitch 1) Start walking up the chimney. Class two quickly turns to three and four before reaching an impasse below a large chockblock. An old rusty bolt ladder will bypass this chockblock, however, the free variation is only 5.8 and well protected. Clip one of the first two bolts on the ladder for security and use chimney technique to ascend directly below the chockblock. Place a bomber small to medium cam with a long runner and pull the strenuous old school 5.8 moves to gain the slopped and sandy top of the chockblock. Set up a belay in the tree/bushes further above the chockblock.
Pitch 2) Bump the belay up to an alcove at the highest point of the slopped and sandy ledge.
Climb a hollow stack of blocks (5.5) until a bush with years of broken sticks and sediment blocks your progress. Find a passage through the bush and debris. Set up a belay on top of the debris at the base of a dark and intimidating chimney.
Pitch 3) Easily begin up the chimney setting questionable pro until a good rest is reached below an impasse. Slowly stem toward the outside of the chimney to eventually regain upward progress (5.7). Climb up the narrowing and increasingly rotten chimney. Stay on route here and do not escape toward Tithe.
When you reach the top of the climb, find a large pine tree with slings and biners for the start of the rappels. Make one double rope rappel to the sandy/sloped top of pitch one. Find a ledge that traverses over the top of pitch one, looking for a rappel anchor that consists of a rusty quarter inch bolt and an old stopper. Make a single rope rappel from the bolt/stopper anchor back to the start of the climb.
Pitch 1) Start walking up the chimney. Class two quickly turns to three and four before reaching an impasse below a large chockblock. An old rusty bolt ladder will bypass this chockblock, however, the free variation is only 5.8 and well protected. Clip one of the first two bolts on the ladder for security and use chimney technique to ascend directly below the chockblock. Place a bomber small to medium cam with a long runner and pull the strenuous old school 5.8 moves to gain the slopped and sandy top of the chockblock. Set up a belay in the tree/bushes further above the chockblock.
Pitch 2) Bump the belay up to an alcove at the highest point of the slopped and sandy ledge.
Climb a hollow stack of blocks (5.5) until a bush with years of broken sticks and sediment blocks your progress. Find a passage through the bush and debris. Set up a belay on top of the debris at the base of a dark and intimidating chimney.
Pitch 3) Easily begin up the chimney setting questionable pro until a good rest is reached below an impasse. Slowly stem toward the outside of the chimney to eventually regain upward progress (5.7). Climb up the narrowing and increasingly rotten chimney. Stay on route here and do not escape toward Tithe.
When you reach the top of the climb, find a large pine tree with slings and biners for the start of the rappels. Make one double rope rappel to the sandy/sloped top of pitch one. Find a ledge that traverses over the top of pitch one, looking for a rappel anchor that consists of a rusty quarter inch bolt and an old stopper. Make a single rope rappel from the bolt/stopper anchor back to the start of the climb.
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