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Chloe's Breakfast Special 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Quinn 12/97
Page Views: 2,176
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Dec 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Nuria high on the route.
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Its dirty appearance doesn't do it justice--this route is two-star quality as both an end-of-day warm-down, or a nice, early morning warm-up.

Start up low-angle rock at the right end of the cliff, about 10 feet from the stepped, left-facing corner and just right of the dirty gully. (Don't be confused--Chloe's is the third line of bolts left of the corner!!). Clip a couple of bolts while wandering up the slab, clip another bolt at your face, then pass over a quartz dike and step into the climb proper. From here, the route takes you up a fairly innocuous-looking face, littered with great edges, surprise incuts, positive footholds, and fabulous positioning. You will encounter one mantle shelf at about mid-height, then another about 10 feet from the anchors.

Despite the number of holds in your face, Chloe's hides a killer sequence of movements that, once unlocked, flows beautifully. Quick clips at the top.

Enjoy!!


Location 

Locate the major left-facing corner at the right end of the main face. The route begins about 10 feet to the left at a low-angle slab, just to the right of a dirty gully.


Protection 

MANY BOLTS!! It is possible to back-clean a couple of bolts to cut down on rope drag.



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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FA is Dave Quinn 12/97

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 27, 2010

Chloe's is an excellent route. Very well protected and enjoyable moves up the ever steepening slab. We climbed it in wet conditions and escaped just prior to a wild T-storm.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is great. Ignore the messy/dirty start. Suck it up and climb this route. You will not be dissapointed.

By S. Neoh
Oct 23, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yeah, nice route. A bit sharp but still a v. good moderate route. Just make sure to bring enough draws if you want to clip every bolt.
2.5 stars from me.

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Loved it. The start is pretty messy, but the moves flow nicely at about 5.4 and its not in the main flow of water. The upper section is amazing, full value 5.8 climbing. Jump on it, its worth it :)

Bolts at the top could be skipped if wanted, I climbed past one or two simply because the moves flow so well.

By Ming
Feb 27, 2012

Great 5.8 lead for a 5.8 leader. It's progressive, safe, and just technical enough to keep the new leader on his or her toes. Fun route when it's dry enough to run up on it.