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Routes in Narrows Proper
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Art of Breaking, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cantaloupe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cement Garden, The T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Chiroptophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Choss Ninja S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Deep Eddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fudge Judge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Other People's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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People's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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People's Rebolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Red Faction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Screwheads S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sloppy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Snap, Crackle, Pop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Village Idiot, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Mike Schneiter & BJ Sbarra |
| Page Views: | 1,819 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Dec 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Chiroptophobia = the fear of bats. This long line features a long, splitter crack system that may have a few bats in hiding, which are easily avoided via the multiple cracks. The bats do add an air of adventure to this route and it should not be missed!
Chiroptophobia ascends a short face at the start that has one bolt to protect face climbing between crack systems. Above the face, a short, but stout bulge is the crux of the route and is surpassed with deep jams in the crack and good holds on the face. A #5 Camalot is useful for protecting this section but you don't have to do offwidth moves.
Above the bulge, climb to the base of the main face where twin cracks split the face. Jam to your heart's delight, avoiding bats when necessary, to the top of the face and the anchor.
Chiroptophobia ascends a short face at the start that has one bolt to protect face climbing between crack systems. Above the face, a short, but stout bulge is the crux of the route and is surpassed with deep jams in the crack and good holds on the face. A #5 Camalot is useful for protecting this section but you don't have to do offwidth moves.
Above the bulge, climb to the base of the main face where twin cracks split the face. Jam to your heart's delight, avoiding bats when necessary, to the top of the face and the anchor.
Location
This route is the first route on the left when entering the Notch. The route begins from a wide platform of scree and bushes. One bolt low on the route marks the start.
Protection
One bolt protects face climbing between crack systems low on the route, otherwise it's all gear. A double set of cams up to #3 Camalot with singles in #4 and #5 should suffice. Some may want 3 pieces in the hand size. There's a two-bolt chain anchor 110 feet from the base so a 70-meter rope is required.
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