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 ADVANCED
Narrows Proper
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Art of Breaking, The S 
Cantaloupe S 
Cement Garden, The T,TR 
Chiroptophobia T 
Choss Ninja S 
Fudge Judge T 
Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 
Other People's Crack T 
People's Crack T 
PWTHFRWDLGS T 
Red Faction S 
Screwheads S 
Sloppy Seconds S 
Snap, Crackle, Pop T 
Village Idiot, The T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Chiroptophobia 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter & BJ Sbarra
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 422
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 4, 2007

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Description 

Chiroptophobia = the fear of bats. This long line features a long, splitter crack system that may have a few bats in hiding, which are easily avoided via the multiple cracks. The bats do add an air of adventure to this route and it should not be missed!
Chiroptophobia ascends a short face at the start that has one bolt to protect face climbing between crack systems. Above the face, a short, but stout bulge is the crux of the route and is surpassed with deep jams in the crack and good holds on the face. A #5 Camalot is useful for protecting this section but you don't have to do offwidth moves.
Above the bulge, climb to the base of the main face where twin cracks split the face. Jam to your heart's delight, avoiding bats when necessary, to the top of the face and the anchor.

Location 

This route is the first route on the left when entering the Notch. The route begins from a wide platform of scree and bushes. One bolt low on the route marks the start.

Protection 

One bolt protects face climbing between crack systems low on the route, otherwise it's all gear. A double set of cams up to #3 Camalot with singles in #4 and #5 should suffice. Some may want 3 pieces in the hand size. There's a two-bolt chain anchor 110 feet from the base so a 70-meter rope is required.


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By david goldstein
Jul 8, 2008

If in addition to dealing with copious lichen and choss, you want to harass wildlife, this is the route for you. The first 30', through the roof are ok (though even there I stemmed off right to some very dubious wedged flakes), but then it goes downhill. The middle section of pure grunge and then you hit the promising looking upper cracks, only to hear piteous bleating coming from the best looking one so you'll probably end up detouring around this part.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

congrats david, you probably got the second ascent! a little more traffic and it should clean up fine ;-), just don't stem out to the loose stuff, it's not necessary. also, the route moves right into a good corner after the OW, then back left at the nice cracks. there may indeed be bats in there, hence the name. we found it easy enough to climb around them given the other cracks in the vicinity.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 2, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I just climbed this again this evening and I have to say it's probably my favorite climb at the Narrows. Excellent, sustained crack climbing with a hard crux. There were no bats, which certainly makes it a much more enjoyable outing....
By Alex Garhart
Jun 7, 2014

Fun route with a good crux. The gear is good in all the right places.