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Chiricahua Gumption
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
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Routes in Native American Crag
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Chiricahua Gumption S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ryan Brough and James Garrett, 7 September 2007 |
| Page Views: | 810 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Sep 9, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Minimize passing through private property.
Details
Access via Big Cottonwood Canyon leaves little other options other than passing through private property and people's back yards to access the steep north facing hillside up to Powder Ridge Wall or Native American Crag.
The other and longer approach is via Ferguson Canyon.
The other and longer approach is via Ferguson Canyon.
Description
CG is on the right or West Facing part of the Native American Crag. Look for bolts starting at the NW corner. Due to rope drag, this climb is comprised of two short pitches, each with distinctive cruxes.
Pitch #1: An awkward start off the ground passing a bolt at a bulge to a short little headwall highstepping up some chickenheads to slab and a two bolt belay ledge. 5.10a.
Pitch #2: Climb the corner clipping a bolt out left on the face to a roof traverse that necessitates thoughtful gumption to the arete. Follow the pleasant arete to the top of the climb and a two-bolt belay. 5.10a/b.
Rappel the route.
Pitch #1: An awkward start off the ground passing a bolt at a bulge to a short little headwall highstepping up some chickenheads to slab and a two bolt belay ledge. 5.10a.
Pitch #2: Climb the corner clipping a bolt out left on the face to a roof traverse that necessitates thoughtful gumption to the arete. Follow the pleasant arete to the top of the climb and a two-bolt belay. 5.10a/b.
Rappel the route.
![Looking down the best part of the climb- P2... and the worst part- someone's [should be] blighted backyard and the eyesore Tavaci.](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/106326107_smallMed_1494097960.jpg?cache=1597514829)
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