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Native American Crag
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Chiricahua Gumption S 

Chiricahua Gumption 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ryan Brough and James Garrett, 7 September 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 9, 2007

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Bolt counts and positions are approximate. The fi...

Minimize passing through private property. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

CG is on the right or West Facing part of the Native American Crag. Look for bolts starting at the NW corner. Due to rope drag, this climb is comprised of two short pitches, each with distinctive cruxes.

Pitch #1: An awkward start off the ground passing a bolt at a bulge to a short little headwall highstepping up some chickenheads to slab and a two bolt belay ledge. 5.10a.
Pitch #2: Climb the corner clipping a bolt out left on the face to a roof traverse that necessitates thoughtful gumption to the arete. Follow the pleasant arete to the top of the climb and a two-bolt belay. 5.10a/b.

Rappel the route.

Location 

As noted above. NW corner of Native American Crag.

Protection 

8-10 QDs. All belays in place.


Photos of Chiricahua Gumption Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the best part of the climb- P2... and...
Looking down the best part of the climb- P2... and...

Comments on Chiricahua Gumption Add Comment
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By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Sep 12, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Interesting route (in a good way). It threads its way up semi-solid rock avoiding the crouton pile the rest of this crag seems to be. Well bolted. The second pitch crux was wild followed by fantastic moves up the upper arete with some exposure. A couple chickenheads I thought were bomber ended up being deployed into outer space. I guess I need to loose some weight. Thanks James and Ryan for a fun route.
By James Garrett
Oct 26, 2008

Interesting account...thanks go to Ryan Brough for finding this bit of obscurity. One would have to be quite creative to come up with additional lines on this one. Right On Ryan!
By madskates
From: SLC
May 27, 2014

Climbed this route yesterday and there are a few things to note. Once you pass powder ridge wall the trail is very faint till you get to a little rock gully. Here there are quite a few deer trails to choose from which do require some pretty terrible bushwhacking up to the way. I would plan on an hour approach. However the route was fun and took a creative mind to find this like mentioned above. Each pitch is rather short though and the rock definitely needs to see much more traffic because its very gritty and pulls out in parts. Overall the route has some really fun moves but for me it was not worth the 2 hours it took me to get there. Awesome eye on finding this line though!