This line ascends the middle of the formation skirting the roof on the right side.
Pitch 1 (5.4)
Ascend through the blocky chunks of the sill taking the lefter of the two bolt lines. Easy but beware of LARGE death blocks. 2 bolt anchor with chains.
Pitch 2 (5.9+)
Climb up and slightly right from the chains following the right line of bolts where they diverge. Pull through a small roof (crux) and then continue up onto the slab above. Very balancy. Finishes on small ledge with chain anchors.
Pitch 3 (5.8)
Head up and follow the bolt line for another 40 or so feet until you reach another small ledge with a chain anchor.
If you have a tolerance for rope drag and healthy sense of when to sling things you can do the entire climb in one long 60-70 meter pitch. Requires 21 quickdraws and anchoring equipment.
A 70 meter rope can just BARELY make it to the 1st set of anchors from the third. Tie knots in the ends as the fall would surely kill if someone rapped off the ends. From there thread the 1st anchor and aim for the ground.
The middle climb on the wall this ascends just to the left of a large (>20 ft) left facing dihedral.
Bolts with chain anchors. 21 total.
|By Taylor Spiegelberg|
From: Sheridan, Wyoming
Nov 6, 2012
The top two pitches are pretty awesome! Lots of sloping holds on good rock. If you dont mind the choss at the bottom go send it!
|By Jeffrey Dunn|
Aug 4, 2014
Finding the approach trail is tricky, a little gully about 100 yards past the campsite that reaches a faint trail that traverses up and right towards the cliff. The approach pitch is shown in the book splitting into left and right versions to approach the two different starting anchors. In reality, there is a slightly right and a hard right version and the bolts are hard to see in the vegetation.
There is potential for a nasty fall onto the belayer/belay ledge at the start of the first real pitch, but the climbing there is easier.