Chips Off the Ol' Block
|Type: ||Trad, 6 pitches, 600'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Tai Devore, Jeremy Freeman, Adam Winters, Greg Smith - March 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||3,181|
|Submitted By: ||Adam Winters on Mar 27, 2009|
|Good Page?||2 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Tai Devore FA-ing pitch one. The top of pitch thr...
Ascends a huge right-facing corner on the 'Scheelite Wall' in the first 3 pitches, then continues up obvious crack systems thru ledges and more entertaining terrain. Most of the climbing is 5.7ish, with one sequence of 5.10a/b, which could most likely be bypassed by a couple wider cracks and/or some face climbing if need-be.
Pitches 1 - 3: Climb a wide, flaring crack/groove in a large corner (mostly 5.7) to a tricky bulge and a short squeeze section just before reaching the top of the pillar on a nice ledge (5.9). Bolt anchors.
Pitch 4: Climb straight up, left of the tree thru the crack systems on the slab to a nice short hand-crack after a bush, then finish on a short slab to the bolt anchor on a ledge (5.7).
Pitch 5: Scramble/walk up and right to the base of the next headwall. Climb the short hand crack to the arching finger crack just right of the offwidth (crux-5.10a/b). Use the crack and edges to meet up with the offwidth and the ledge just higher up. Bolt anchor.
Pitch 6: Scramble down and left to the base of the obvious large crack system with a short gang plank at the base. Climb up, over or between large hollow flakes and straight up the crack/groove to the chimney with a bolt. Squeeze your way up and thru as the angle eases back. Find a crack on the left wall that leads up and out to a large ledge (5.8+). Build an anchor somewhere to the left or scramble over to the right side of the large crack to the rappel anchor next to the right-hand slab.
Descent: Rappel the route
The obvious right-facing corner system towards the left side of the 'Scheelite Wall'.
Gear to 3", bigger stuff available but not necessary
Bolt anchors/mussy hooks
BETA PHOTO: 'Chips off the Ol' Block' topo
Tai Devore FA-ing crux pitch 5, belayed by Jeremy ...
BETA PHOTO: Seen from the mouth of the canyon
motoring past the P5 crux move
Looking up at the P5 crux
April coming up pitch 4 of Chips. May 2010
An awkward section near the top of P3
Placing the final pro on the crux pitch.
|Comments on Chips Off the Ol' Block
|By Adam Winters|
From: the Shire
Mar 28, 2009
Named for the 4-foot block that unexpectedly dislodged and tipped over onto Greg's leg while cleaning the 2nd pitch on a fixed line. The block severed the rope 10 feet below him. He brushed it off and continued scrubbing. There were 4 of us on the route when it went down, luckily Greg was the last one up! Anyone at the base would have been hurting.
|By Bruce Willey|
From: Bishop, CA
May 27, 2009
Nice work guys on a great route. You can rap with one 60m from P-5 to base with ease (especially now since the rope snagger on P-2 is gone thanks to Tai). Always glad to hear Greg is still with us.
|By Vic Lawson|
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 27, 2009
Good route, actually a lot better than I expected! An obviously tremendous effort ws required to clean all the dirt and choss off of this thing but what Tai and crew left for us eastsiders when finished was nothing short of kick ass! Thanks!
|By Denis O'Connor|
Oct 14, 2009
We climbed this on 9/27/09 on Tai's recommendation after meeting him at Wilson's. Very fun. Thanks to Tai and the other FA-ers for putting it up.
From: Big Pine, CA
Aug 19, 2010
I would link pitches 1 and 2, also probably 3 and 4 just to make it a bit quicker. It's a good route all in all. It's a nice multi-pitch moderate for the area. Pretty straight foreword route finding. You can definitely rap with a 60m rope. There is a rap station in between the 5th and 6th pitch that gives the option for a 5.12 TR which makes it possible for 60m rope to rappel the whole way.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Jan 29, 2012
Is it true the last pitch changed since the FA? I heard the flake used to go higher up on the wall. It looked kind of dicey getting to the first gear when I was there (May 2010)
|By Weston L|
From: Summerlin, NV
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
What a great climb. Wandered up here and was handsomely rewarded. Didn't check the MP info section otherwise would have done the sixth pitch (only had one rope), but the first five pitches did NOT disappoint. Gear to 4" and you need nothing bigger than that. This climb is simply awesome, and Tai et al did one hell of a job cleaning the route.
This route is incredibly varied but of the highest quality. We also managed to wander off route a bit (went right instead of up on P4). This takes you up a cool LB corner and on to some slabby face, I'd rate it about 5.6R or so. Definitely a no fall zone on the slab, but very fun. Beware death blocks on the ledge above, you come up 20' to the climbers right of the P4 anchor. A fun variation if you have done the route before, although admittedly the standard way of doing things looks like much more fun.
Stop reading this and go climb this route. Seriously.
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
this route really seems like a labor of love, from the nice approach trail, to the well bolted belays/rap stations, to the climbing itself (varied and fun, be comfortable with wide stuff). all of these things take foresight, planning, and a whole lot of elbow grease. it is very much appreciated and in a 5 star system i would rate the climbing as 4/5. thanks!
i climbed blackwater and bob-bob-a-ramp (left finish) a couple of days earlier and found the cruxes of both to be more difficult than the thin part of chips off the ol' block. thus i'd rate that part 5.9 instead of 10a (or 10b). there are good feet to get to a nice rail.
much of this route reminded me of bruce bindner, pretty sure he would have loved it (and climbed both fat variations on p5 8^). maybe it can be the aka 'brutus of wyde memorial route'...
From: THA WEST COAST
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Stellar line and very enjoyable, varied climbing with great rock quality and cool pitches. Certainly a modern moderate classic of the area!
|By Josh Cameron|
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
The wind was whipping when we were there; thought I was going to get blown off pitch 4! Did the first five pitches with one rope and I feel its a good climb but not as good as I was expecting, mainly because of the first 3 pitches, which seemed to alternate between fun corner and uninspiring flared gully. On a five star system I'd give the route 3 stars: 2 stars for the first 3 pitches and 4 stars for pitches 4 and 5. Overall, not what I'd call a great climb, but it is worth doing.
Also, I'd probably say pitch 4 feels PG-13; it wasn't runout but far enough between pieces that I wouldn't want to fall in that classic Sierra climbing way. The climb is a good opportunity to gain some elevation. If I did it again, I'd bring doubles from finger size to #1 C4's and 1 #2 and 1 #3 C4.
Wonder what that offwidth on p5 climbs like; it looked brutal!