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Another inimitable Perlin route. Some call it straightforward pocket-pulling, others call it the best route for hundreds of miles. Either way, it's no give-away and keeps you engaged for the whole pitch. Stout crimps lead to pocket after pocket after pocket... awesome!
Follows a prominent black streak of rock at the left-hand side of the Tor. The starting holds are a shallow slot for the left hand, and a pinch for the right. Kick right foot way out right, fire left hand up to diagonal crimp, then start pulling.
Technically, the route has 6 fixed draws, but there is a bolt at the crux with no draw on it. You can bring an extra draw, but I recommend you climb through the crux and risk the near-perfect fall. You don't want to clip off those pockets anyways.
Me, redpointing. This is the drop-knee before ente...
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 12, 2010
Phil Requist on Chips Ahoy (12d) at the Owl Tor, Santa Maria.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 18, 2013
A fantastic Tor redpoint. Even if you don't "technically" climb the grade, give it a whirl anyway; this route begs be tried. Climb fast and efficient to the rest jugs, then do your best to keep it together till the clip (Dean, you know what I'm talking about).