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Bad Seed - Eviction
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Chip off the Old Block 
Like Father, Like Son 

Chip off the Old Block 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: D. Bingham, 2005
Page Views: 131
Submitted By: Boissal on Sep 29, 2011
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Description 

This fun bolted line features technical climbing on smallish holds for the first half and holds that insist on facing the wrong way (read: downward) for the second half.
A few moves on exfoliating choss get you to solid patina jugs and the 2nd bolt. Pull through a steep bulge using funky gastons and sloppy holds and establish below a series of small roofs that all require some form of underclinging to surmount. Keep yourself together when the feet disappear (or lichen renders them useless) and you have to pull one last mantel.


Location 

Chip off the Old Block climbs the right edge of the large white roof band that sits in the middle of the E face of the formation.


Protection 

6 or 7 bolts? One of them at least is hard to spot. Backclean the 1st.
Chain anchors, lower or rappel



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