Chingando 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Sep 27, 2006 |
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Rick Cashner free soloing "Chingando". Photo by Bl...
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The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description On the far left of Reed's Pinnacle Area is a Huge, detatched flake, split by a left leaning crack. This huge flake is known as The Iota. The crack is "Chingando".
Location Walk uphill from below the climb. Rappel off.
Protection 1.5"-3".
Leading Chingando August 2007 Yosemite Valley at T...
| Scott following Chingando (As he calls it Chingand...
| Randy on his OS lead of Chingdango
| Randy on his OS lead of Chingdango
| BETA PHOTO: Telephoto view of the Iota; the prominen...
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By Aaron S Apr 26, 2007
| The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit". Yea... pay attention to that part. |
By Alexey From: San Jose Dec 10, 2007
| Gear beta in above route description is wrong. Camalots in order of the climb: #2, #0.75 , #1, #2, #3, 2#4C4 2#5C4, #6C4, #3 BigBro |
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Dec 10, 2007
| Dammit Blitzo! Stop "gurgling" and put in some good info with your scant ass route descriptions. Pro to 3"???? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!111 |
By armando fimbrez From: rancho cucamonga Feb 26, 2008
| Chingando gets right into business as soon as your feet leave the ground. I climbed it one very warm August afternoon in the sun. let's just say, crazy or stupid? I had fun climbing the route. And would do it again. Hardman offwidth training circuit! Lives up to that. I did use a #6 and walked it up until I couldn't anymore. Then I used a #4(blu) bigbro that i bought in the valley just for this climb. I'm glad I had the big bro. Armando |
By Rob Dillon From: '81 Sunrader Mar 6, 2009
| Yeah, pro to 3". And shirts are aid. As are high-tops and long pants. Sure thing, Blitzo! |
By Osprey From: ... Mar 5, 2010
| Defiantly on the training circuit. One of the easier 5.10 offwidths though. There are a lot of knobs and edges on this one so you don't actually have to use only offwidth technique as much as some other .10a's of this size. I think Chuck was just fucking around on this one, as the name implies. |
By Bryan G From: Yosemite Nov 20, 2010
| Like many wide cracks, this climb doesn't get the attention it deserves. It's every bit as good as Reed's Direct or Lunatic Fringe. Bring doubles on the 4's and 5's and at least one 6 (plus some hand size stuff for the start) and you should be good to go. You shouldn't need a big bro unless you're a really big dude and can't fit in the chimney up there. |
By Ken Trout From: Golden, CO Jan 31, 2011
| FIRST ASCENT: Chuck Pratt, June, 1965. In 1961, Mr. Pratt also led Crack of Doom, Yosemite's first 5.10. (Steve Roper, Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley, 1971) In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete... |
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