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South Face - Left Side
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Chauvinist, The 
Chingadera 
Innominate, The 
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Right Ski Track 
Sling Swing Traverse 

Chingadera 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Kamps & Mark Powell, 1967
Page Views: 1,264
Submitted By: Nat Lim on Jul 7, 2008
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Description 

A phenomenal test-piece with stellar crack moves, a distinct mantle, and smearage fest/crux one will never ever forget. Incredibly sustained saving it's best for the last!


Location 

to the right of the Ski Tracks


Protection 

Small pro .4-1" down low to protect the crack, and a handful of draws to protect the upper section



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By Nat Lim
Jul 7, 2008

Loved this route, and loved how sustained and varied the crux(s) of the route were, a must do for those who love smearfests!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 22, 2010

Bob Kamps led this in Pivettas - I remember him talking to me about it once, hanging out at Spiral Traverse, Stoney Point - he said they edged really well!

By Richard Shore
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Ground-up onsight first ascent in 1967. Wow! The stuff of legend. The stances seemed desperate for drilling, especially considering the footwear.

A good pair of edging shoes are recommended. Your toes will be screaming at you by the time you are ready to make the last and final crux move to the anchors. Dime edge crimps and tiny, improbable smears.

By Richard Shore
May 25, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Some interesting trivia per Don Lauria:

"Powell named this route after a dog he bet on in Rapid City on a hunch. The dog came in last - hence the name." HA!

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Tried to onsight, but went to the right after the last bolt instead of to the left. Ended up even with the first set of anchors but unable to traverse over to make the clip and had to take the fall. Go left after the last bolt before the first anchors!

By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 24, 2012

Tried for an OS without any of the above beta and did the same thing as Nelson... went up and right and was level with the anchors and pretty much had to intentionally fall (a long one but relatively clean). Still ended up making the anchors from the right though; the last 6 inches of reaching for them was possibly the most tenuous move I've ever made, and the tip of my left middle finger is still numb from survival crimping on those tiny edges past the last bolt. Looked at going up and left as an alternative but it looked too blank; I'll have to check it out again next time.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Going left is desperate as well, but doable. Very desperate smearing on a rail with my right foot (waist high), while crimping hard with my left hand, edging on my toes with my left foot on a miniscule flake, and huge core tension got me to the anchors... I remember my feet hurting after I got off of this climb from the intense edging.