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Orange Crush
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Chinese Water Torture 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Hammond, Bradley White, mid 1980's
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 21, 2009
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Description 

From the top of pitch 2 of the Original Orange Crush move directly up past 2 pins in a horizontal crack over a bulge (hard 5-10) into a dirty corner slot chimney like depression. Follow this depression until there is an exit right. This direct finish with a intense scrubbing would be a nice addition to this section. I'm sure the pins are rotted out by now. The crack they are in continuously gets and remains wet.
Ted led it and rebuked me for thinking it was a good climb because it was so dirty. I didn't lead it after his epic ascent. It has gone into the void of obscurity, although it was the first of it's kind to this area to reveal what free climbing potential was to become some of the renown climbs of Rattlesnake. It blindsided me to pursuing these other first ascents.


Location 

From the top of pitch 2 of the Original Orange Crush move directly up past 2 pins in a horizontal crack


Protection 

small to medium stoppers, Tri-cams and friends. The top is all freshly bolted with fat glue-ins. Ted was so involved with just getting through the climb he didn't use any protection besides the pins. He did at least a twenty foot run out to the top.



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 12, 2010

This was partially retroed. The top has new glue-ins and an anchor. Watch for loose rock and avoid if people are below as it still needs more cleaning. It shouldn't be too bad for the adventurous, better when the retro job is finished a couple years from now.

Make sure you dont disturb or clean the area around the fragrent ferns

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2013

I wish i had read this earlier.. I thought i had seen bolts on it so i started up with just draws and was like... hmmmm.... i guess not... its good to know that the upper part is safe... ill bring gear next time and get after it :)