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Orange Crush
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Chinese Water Torture 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Hammond, Bradley White, mid 1980's
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 661
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 21, 2009

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Description 

From the top of pitch 2 of the Original Orange Crush move directly up past 2 pins in a horizontal crack over a bulge (hard 5-10) into a dirty corner slot chimney like depression. Follow this depression until there is an exit right. This direct finish with a intense scrubbing would be a nice addition to this section. I'm sure the pins are rotted out by now. The crack they are in continuously gets and remains wet.
Ted led it and rebuked me for thinking it was a good climb because it was so dirty. I didn't lead it after his epic ascent. It has gone into the void of obscurity, although it was the first of it's kind to this area to reveal what free climbing potential was to become some of the renown climbs of Rattlesnake. It blindsided me to pursuing these other first ascents.


Location 

From the top of pitch 2 of the Original Orange Crush move directly up past 2 pins in a horizontal crack


Protection 

small to medium stoppers, Tri-cams and friends. The top is all freshly bolted with fat glue-ins. Ted was so involved with just getting through the climb he didn't use any protection besides the pins. He did at least a twenty foot run out to the top.



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 12, 2010

This was partially retroed. The top has new glue-ins and an anchor. Watch for loose rock and avoid if people are below as it still needs more cleaning. It shouldn't be too bad for the adventurous, better when the retro job is finished a couple years from now.

Make sure you dont disturb or clean the area around the fragrent ferns

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I wish i had read this earlier.. I thought i had seen bolts on it so i started up with just draws and was like... hmmmm.... i guess not... its good to know that the upper part is safe... ill bring gear next time and get after it :)

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 11, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

UPDATE: Climbed it this evening! the chimney at the top is kneebar city :)
I placed a #4 stopper at the beginning, there were many pins (5 or 6 that i saw) i clipped 3 of them and skipped a few cause they were rotten. I was happy to clip the 3 new bolts toward the top.

The climbing was pretty good most of the way and spectacular for the last 20 feet... but loose rock, rotten pitons and even a small pricker bush will keep most from discovering it.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 12, 2014

Thanks for reminding me, Lee. I'll put it up towards the top of my list of Rumney-finish retroing jobs. I thought it was a good route too, and worthy of a fix-up.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
May 16, 2014

Has become what I thought it should be, a nearly great route. This was solo top rope cleaned, it was way dirtier and I free climbed it after the two pins were placed in the usually seeping wet crack. now there are five or six pins and these other pins are mysterious? I should have led it (oops) because I thought it was clean and not a mortality on the line climb because after the two pins there are natural placements for gear I knew were there. Ted didn't stop for anything and had no gear after the two pins all the way to the trees. Mortality on the line climbs are what I do the most. Its such a dopamine rush.