Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Winter Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Drilling Experience S 
Barnburner T 
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 
Blank Man S 
Chinese Freedom S 
Cooler Than Ice S 
Cooler Than Paradigm S 
Do The Right Thing S 
Foreign Affairs S 
Go Between, The S 
Insectaphobe S 
Itch, The S 
Jam and Jelly T 
Jump Start S 
Jump to Something Good S 
Kelly's Arete S 
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 
Light My Fire S 
Living All Over Me S 
Longing for Miss Adonis S 
Meet the Feebles S 
Mississippi Burning S 
New Kids on the Rock S 
NSP S 
Orange Marmalade S 
Paradigm Shift S 
Paul's Boutique S 
Preemptive Strike S 
Pretty in Pink T,S 
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 
Relentless T,TR 
Right Touch S 
Rock Pigs S 
Skooter Trash S 
Soft Touch S 
Spy Friction S 
Squeeze Play S 
Start of Something Good S 
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 
Toxic Art T,S 
Vias, aka Godzilla S 
Unsorted Routes:

Chinese Freedom 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Nate Postma
Page Views: 4,085
Submitted By: Adam Therneau on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Trying the crux, again...

(crux underclings seen ...

Description 

Chinese Freedom is one of the best climbs at Red Wing, offering great technical climbing, bomber rock(for MN dolomite, that is), and two back to back cruxes that couldn't be more different in character. Twenty feet of crimpy climbing brings you to the cruxes. The first is a delicate, improbable cross through off a flat undercling sloper. The sloper can't really be grasped, just pushed up on by standing up, and crossing through seems ridiculous until you finally commit and go for it. Many people, particularly those of a shorter stature, end up lunging at the end of the cross through; luckily the pockets you're reaching for are two of the most improbably perfect jugs you'll ever encounter on a route. Shake out and clip from the jugs, then go for the next crux; a huge deadpoint dyno to a flat edge three or four feet above the holes. This hold must be hit perfectly to prevent you're feet from popping off the nonexistent smears for feet. Once through the second crux, easier climbing featuring a fist jam rest, the world's best two finger pocket, and a couple of perfect oxide crimps lead to one last long move to a jug at the anchors.


Protection 

bolts



Photos of Chinese Freedom Slideshow Add Photo
Technical crux
BETA PHOTO: Technical crux
Sticking the dyno at the finish of the crux section.
Sticking the dyno at the finish of the crux sectio...
Jak making the technical crossover
Jak making the technical crossover
Joel Therneau cruising through the crux traverse. December, 2006.
Joel Therneau cruising through the crux traverse. ...
Jonathan Williams moving into the crux of Chinese freedom. Photo by Meg Lelonek. 2005.
BETA PHOTO: Jonathan Williams moving into the crux of Chinese ...
Jonathan Williams moving into the hueco jugs on Chinese Freedom. Photo by Meg Lelonek, 2005. Ben Bodenhamer belaying.
Jonathan Williams moving into the hueco jugs on Ch...
Nate with the Deadpoint!
Nate with the Deadpoint!
Moving into key footholds.
Moving into key footholds.
Comments on Chinese Freedom Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Therneau
Nov 15, 2006

Probably one of the three best routes at redwing, and the best route of the grade I've ever done.

By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

A classic and one of the most popular on this wall; and for good reason.

By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
Oct 20, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

The first crux can be done without crossing through with your left hand but you must be tall. This route is so classic, a must every time I go to RedWing

By Joel Andersen
Dec 19, 2011

11a/b for the sake of downgrading randy.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 19, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

hahaha.

dude, i have no right to downgrade. now, you, a colorado resident, can be the downgrade sheriff.