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(4) Music Hall
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Chinese Fiddle T 
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Chinese Fiddle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Danger on Jun 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

A surprisingly cruxy moderate in the balcony area. Turn 3 overhangs to get to the shiny new anchors under the roof

The route wanders and protection is good but not always exactly where you want it so bring your slings!

Location 

Left of the bolted testpiece Devils Challenge 95

Protection 

Protection is good but not always in the ideal location - bring runners/slings.
Anchors have been rebolted(Rappel)


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Sep 11, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

An offset nut placed at the extent of my reach protected the crux overhead. Otherwise, the only pro is a tiny, shitty horizontal way off to the left. Serious ledge-fall potential if it blows.

Top section of this climb is extraordinary!