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> Small Chinese Boulder
Chinese Arete
V6 YDS 7A Font
Avg: 2.9 from 32
votes
Routes in Small Chinese Boulder
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Beached Whale V1 5 |
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Chinese Arete V6 7A |
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Fortune Cookie V5 6C |
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Ruth Guns V3 6A |
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| Type: | Boulder, 10 ft (3 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,965 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on Oct 31, 2014 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is the west facing arete of the small Chinese Boulder. The problem is between Fortune Cookie (v5) to the left, and Ruth's Guns (v4) to the right.
Sit starting on the good undercling block with the left hand, and an incut crimp/ rail for the right hand. Do a big move with the right hand to a not-so-good crimp on the right face of the arete. Now bump the left hand up many times until it lands in the final highest good slot left of the arete. Get your feet reset under you and dyno for the lip! The hardest part is clamping down on the poor right hand crimp for so long while you re-position your left hand and feet so many times to set up for the dyno. This problem has long been considered v5, but it feels significantly harder to me than Fortune Cookie (v5) to the left, and most other problems graded v5 I can think of in the canyon...I think v6 is more realistic.
Sit starting on the good undercling block with the left hand, and an incut crimp/ rail for the right hand. Do a big move with the right hand to a not-so-good crimp on the right face of the arete. Now bump the left hand up many times until it lands in the final highest good slot left of the arete. Get your feet reset under you and dyno for the lip! The hardest part is clamping down on the poor right hand crimp for so long while you re-position your left hand and feet so many times to set up for the dyno. This problem has long been considered v5, but it feels significantly harder to me than Fortune Cookie (v5) to the left, and most other problems graded v5 I can think of in the canyon...I think v6 is more realistic.
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