Chinaman's Bluff is a remote, not-too-often climbed crag on the edge of Mt. Aspiring National Park. It is home to both sport and trad lines, of varying degrees of difficulty and lengths. A few local climbers have essentially developed it for their own use. The rock quality varies from route to route. It's a beautiful setting, in a fern-filled forest with views of the Dart River valley.
Chinaman's Bluff's most well-known route is Ravages of Time, a multipitch grade 20.
Bring insect repellent and come prepared to brave the buggers.
From Queenstown, head up the shore of Lake Wakitipu to Glenorchy. Stock up on supplies before you leave Queenstown.
Once you've reached Glenorchy, drive through town and follow signs to "Paradise." You will drive for roughly an hour on gravel roads up into the Dart River valley, passing turnoffs for the Rees Valley and the famous Routeburn Track.
Drive until the end of the gravel road, which will be marked by a bus shelter for backpackers and some DOC signs.
In wet weather, you may have to park further out the road, as some fords are mandatory to get to the parking area.
Follow the Rees-Dart walking track up the river. A climber's trail shoots off to the right after about 20 minutes for the first sport climbing area. The approach for Ravages is over an hour.