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China Doll (P1-2, free) 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Pitch 1 - Bob Horan, pitch 2 - Mike Patz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 8,859
Submitted By: Mike Patz on Aug 22, 2004

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Jim Redo on the first pitch.

Description 

This route climbs the obvious spectacular right-leaning crack in the middle of Lost Angel Wall. The first pitch features technical stemming with a boulder-problem crux in the middle. The business of the second pitch is about 25 feet of sustained cranking up the thin arching crack.

Pitch 1 - climb a short 5.10ish bolted pitch to anchors where the crack begins. Continue up the crack either placing gear or clipping bolts on the right and finish at a 3-bolt anchor (5.13b/c).

Pitch 2 - do a couple of easy moves where the crack is wide. Come out of the offwidth, and grovel with thrutchy lieback moves and finger/tips locks for about 25 feet of super-pumpy rock climbing. At one point, a glued-on hold was utilized here to avoid the difficulties. After running it out for the last 12 or so feet, pull into a scoop where you can rest. Keep going up the crack, and finish with tricky 5.11ish climbing to two hangerless bolts on the right. Stop here or continue up for about 10 feet, then go left out the roof clipping two bolts that bring you to Beauty and the Bolts (11d). Top out Beauty and the Bolts or traverse left to anchors and go down (5.13+).

The rest (P3-5) of China Doll apparently has not gone free.

Protection 

The first pitch is protected by bolts and a pin but can be led on gear. For the second pitch a #3.5 Camalot, #4 Black Diamond nut, a larger nut and a couple of #0.75 cams or orange Aliens gets it done. More small gear to aid it or work it.


Photos of China Doll (P1-2, free) Slideshow Add Photo
A gorgeous and Yosemite-like piece of granite. The...
A gorgeous and Yosemite-like piece of granite. The...
Brad airing it out on the first pitch to reduce dr...
Brad airing it out on the first pitch to reduce dr...
P1 of China Doll is a nice 11a with the crux at th...
P1 of China Doll is a nice 11a with the crux at th...
The second, crux pitch of China Doll.  Photo: Bob ...
The second, crux pitch of China Doll. Photo: Bob ...
China Doll splits the LA formation.  Photo: Bob Ho...
China Doll splits the LA formation. Photo: Bob Ho...
Brad Gobright getting into the crux dihedral.
Brad Gobright getting into the crux dihedral.

Comments on China Doll (P1-2, free) Add Comment
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By Mike Patz
Aug 24, 2004

I did this route as a two pitch climb on pre-placed gear, but it can go in one tremendous pitch safely protected by gear placed on lead as well as clipping one piton and possibly a bolt. The two pitches are separated by a no-hands rest just before the first pitch anchors but it is still possible that linking them could up the grade. It is also possible that taller people may not get a good rest. However you choose to climb this route, I recommend it to anyone looking for an excellent and challenging crack close to Boulder.
By Mike Patz
Aug 24, 2004

I did this route in two pitches clipping bolts on the first and preplaced gear on the second. It is a continuous crack that could safely go as one tremendous pitch placing gear and clipping a piton. It may or may not up the grade since there is a no-hands rest before the first anchors, but it would certainly be a more bad-ass endeavor. However you climb it, it's an excellent and challenging crack climb super close to Boulder.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 25, 2004

Good job, Mike Patz, but I am confused by this - I thought the first and second pitches had already been sent by Bob Horan, and the 1st and 2nd pitches had been sent without bolts by Adam Stack. Please clarify.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2004

Congrats on free climbing the second pitch without adding bolts! Give yourself a high-five. I heard the glued foothold on the first pitch is gone. How did you do the middle section of this pitch?
By Mike Patz
Aug 26, 2004

I called the first pitch what the Rossiter book calls the first two pitches. At the first pitch crux where the route used to traverse right via a former glued-on foothold you must now go straight up. It is a difficult boulder problem and I have heard the pitch is now a little harder than when the glued foot was there, but if done on gear I think it would be much safer than when Adam did it traversing right. Also the route is now 100% natural.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2005

Hey, Jim, did you send China Doll? If so, good send. You must be fit. BTW, how's it going. It's good to see a familiar face. I have been gone for a long time. KC
By Jim Redo
Sep 2, 2005

Ken, I sent this route last year ( 04)
By Tank Evans
Oct 21, 2012
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a R

The description above is out of date, and I figured this excellent route could use a more clear description. China Doll, as a gear route, is done as one long 130ft pitch at 14a. To start, either 1) solo the 5.10 original start, or 2) scramble up the 5.8 to the right to reach the ledge below the obvious splitter corner. Make difficult moves over marginal gear to get established in the crack, a large HB offset and offset master-cam are usefull here. Climb the crack, placing relatively good but widely spaced gear, until the large horn feature at the old anchor (13b/c). From the horn rest, it is full-on tips jamming for 20ft in a right-leaning, overhanging corner that wants to spit you out the whole way (13+). A microcam and small stopper protect this crux section. The thin crack ends in an alcove, take a breath, and don't blow the funky 5.11 to the anchor. Though the final crux section goes somewhere in the 13d range, the whole climb adds up both mentally and physically to an outstanding 14a. Rack : 1 large offset HB (#5 or 6), small offset Mastercam, singles from 00C3-#1, with doubles #0.4, #0.5, and #0.75, and 1 small stopper.