Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Head Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Things Considered S 
China Crisis S,TR 
Coughing up Fleming S 
Dreams of White Horsts S,TR 
Feng Shui S 
Great White Shark, The S 
Hubba Bubba S 
Little Creatures T 
Masterpiece Theatre S 
Reaches From Hell S 
Skinhead Grin S 
Skinhead Sin S 
So Freakin' Fun S 
Stellar Idea S 
Take me to the River T 
Tworgasaminimum T 
Verde Bunyan S 
Verde Suave S 

China Crisis 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric and Kyle Horst 1987
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: matt matera on Aug 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
China Crisis, 5.11a sport.

Description 

40 feet off-width crack to the right of Hubba Bubba.

Protection 

4 bolts. Can also use a number 4 C4 black dimaond camalot if you want extra protection.


Photos of China Crisis Slideshow Add Photo
Fun OW section.
Fun OW section.

Comments on China Crisis Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Apr 18, 2015

Why is there bolts on this climb? I remember there being a pin about halfway up and not having any trouble with cam placements. What's going on here. Cracks should not have bolts. If you can't climb offwidths then climb something else.
By BrianWS
Apr 19, 2015

Many routes at Bubba City are retrobolted gear lines, per the original FA's decision. Accessibility and convenience were most likely the rationale.

What was done was done years ago and is certainly not the norm at the rest of the gorge. Since it isn't part of a new trend in the area and was done so long ago, it isn't really worth making a fuss over in my opinion.
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
May 12, 2015

While I agree with you Ed, this isn't the only place that this has occurred. I don't know how long the bolts have been there, or if the FA put them there. Other routes that are bolted cracks and can probably be protected with gear are Disturbance at Beauty, Beetle Byway at Meadow, and the list goes on. There are also routes that go the other way. Gear-protected but thin, requiring tiny gear and definitely R rated- the addition of bolts would be justified (with regard to safety), yet they remain boltless. Colorblind at Endless comes to mind. And still others that use a mixture. I think this one seems so egregious because it's sort of in your face with the solid crack all the way up, and because you remember it without bolts.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!