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Yellow Knife Buttress
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Chimney Sweeps 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kevin McShane and partner 2002
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 11, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: the first placement i got on the route... um yeah....

Description 

First, the good stuff. Great location with amazing views of the Baker River Valley and the Summit Crag. Nice fun moderate climbing. Good protection for the most part.

But then there is the bad part, dirty, loose and vegitated pretty much wraps it up. just getting to the climb is a jungle adventure. With a good cleaning it would be more like 2 stars from me. I really only bombed it for the average climber, personally i enjoyed the climb as did my partner Kevin.

To find the route should you choose to accept this mission, hike up and left from the front of yellow knife and find a flat spot to belay below the arete that forms the left edge of the cliff. You will be looking up the gully at Summit Crag.
Wade through plants that are as tall as you and find the moves that help you gain the arete. Climb cracks and face holds up and over some bulges and run up 4th class sections. There is one cracked bulge the i felt was the crux maybe 80 feet up. The upper section is pretty open to interpretation but belay where you like (i did it in one 200ft pitch). at about 150 feet i went through a chimney with 2 evergreen trees in it and finished the climb on the other side of the buttress. This finish puts you about 20ft right of the route Bridge to Nowhere (5.9). climb up a face and follow the ridge to a good belay ledge.


Location 

This adventure follows the left edge of the cliff to the top.
From the last anchor described you can traverse right about 10ft to a 2 bolt anchor. 2 Raps get you down from here.


Protection 

Regular rack. 60m rope.



Photos of Chimney Sweeps Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin coming up the final ridge to the anchor... way up there
Kevin coming up the final ridge to the anchor... w...
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