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Chimney Spire

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Duet T 
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Wall of Early Morning Fright T 

Chimney Spire  


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Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Nov 8, 2012
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Description 

Chimney Spire is the most sought after and prominent formation at Chimney Rocks, and for good reason. With routes ranging from four pitches of crack climbing on Kitty From Hell, to two pitches of clean rock on Duet, there are many ways to access it's airy summit.

The first ascent of this formation is uncertain. Parties who climbed it early on found pitons and, by local custom, attributed it to Fred Beckey. Because of this there's the "Beckey Route" that may not have ever been climbed by Beckey himself. It is likely that Ben Dewell from Fresno made the first ascent in the late 60s or early 70s, but this story is unverified as well.

Getting There 

From the parking area, take the trail West and follow the switchbacks up to the notch on Camp Ridge between Chimney Rock and Crystal Wall. Descend the right side of the gully to reach the base.

Start the descent with a short rappel from the summit to the south east (short). The next anchors are above duet, rappel on the climbers right side of the tower to the top of pitch one of duet (ledge covered in blocks. Rappel off of the big mess of webbing to the base. Can be done with one 60m rope.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.6 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Spire:
Duet   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Wall of Early Morning Fright   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Kitty From Hell   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Classics in Chimney Spire

Featured Route For Chimney Spire
See that big crack in the right/center?  Climb it!

Wall of Early Morning Fright 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : ... : Chimney Spire
The old guidebook says, "Sustained, awkward and exposed. An excellent route." I have to agree with all three. P1: Climb the crack until you reach a two bolt belay on a small alcove before a short chimney/squeeze (5.9). P2: Climb the squeeze, then head up and left until you're on a large ledge with an alcove (optional belay). Chimney out of the alcove and follow the path of least resistance to the large boulder on top that's wrapped in old ropes. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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