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Bolt Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney Route T,TR 
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 
Dazed and Refused T 
Double Jam T,TR 
Meadow Muffin S,TR 
Sky Hook T 
Two to Tango T,TR 
Two-Nut Muffin T 

Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,111
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Climb up 10 feet or so of easy fifth class terrain on jugs to a ledge. Start up the gently tapering chimney.

Above the chimney the Ruckman guide shows the route traversing right to join up with Double Jam but we climbed it "straight" up (it actually trends a bit left) following the same crack system in which we started. The pro does get a bit worse this way.

The Ruckman guide says this route is "best saved for those days when one is feeling thin", but I just hopped out of the chimney and stemmed across it on the face when it had narrowed enough to have to start groveling. In other words, I didn't find this route at all strenuous.

Walk off or rappel from the bolted anchors.


Located on the north face of Bolt Slab is an obvious chimney.


Medium and large nuts, small and medium cams. Bolted anchor at the top. The pro is solid and easy to come by until a little ways past the chimney. If you follow the starting crack system the pro gets a little harder to come by and some of it is a little suspect (hollow-sounding rock).

The bolted anchors are easily reached from the top for top roping.

Photos of Chimney Route Slideshow Add Photo
Exiting the chimney.
Exiting the chimney.
<em>Bolt Slab</em>, North Face <br />1 <a href='/v/dance-of-the-pregnant-wildebeest/106155037'>Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest</a> 5.8 <br />2 <a href='/v/chimney-route/106016213'>Chimney Route</a> 5.7 <br />3 <a href='/v/double-jam/105741683'>Double Jam</a> 5.8 <br />4 <a href='/v/dazed-and-refused/106567088'>Dazed and Refused</a> 5.11d
BETA PHOTO: Bolt Slab, North Face 1 Dance of the Pregnant Wild...
These routes are often overlooked, strange as they are found right off the trail...
These routes are often overlooked, strange as they...
Puumba, just out of the squeeze chimney
Puumba, just out of the squeeze chimney

Comments on Chimney Route Add Comment
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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009

I agree with Perin. Piece of cake line.
By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Better then it looks. Gear is obvious. Listen to your placements, what looked to be promising often sounded hollow. Worth climbing...