Chimney Route  5.7

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Perin Blanchard on Aug 28, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Bolt Slab, North Face
1 Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest 5.8...

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Description 

Climb up 10 feet or so of easy fifth class terrain on jugs to a ledge. Start up the gently tapering chimney.

Above the chimney the Ruckman guide shows the route traversing right to join up with Double Jam but we climbed it "straight" up (it actually trends a bit left) following the same crack system in which we started. The pro does get a bit worse this way.

The Ruckman guide says this route is "best saved for those days when one is feeling thin", but I just hopped out of the chimney and stemmed across it on the face when it had narrowed enough to have to start groveling. In other words, I didn't find this route at all strenuous.

Walk off or rappel from the bolted anchors.

Location 

Located on the north face of Bolt Slab is an obvious chimney.

Protection 

Medium and large nuts, small and medium cams. Bolted anchor at the top. The pro is solid and easy to come by until a little ways past the chimney. If you follow the starting crack system the pro gets a little harder to come by and some of it is a little suspect (hollow-sounding rock).

The bolted anchors are easily reached from the top for top roping.