Chimney Rocks Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 3,181 ft |
GPS: |
45.72157, -122.19326 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 21,026 total · 166/month |
Shared By: | George Zack on Dec 7, 2013 |
Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Access Issue: Weyerhaeuser Closure
Details
as of a June 2016, Weyerhaeuser has closed all access to their lands without a $250 annual permit. Gates are locked each evening, and you can be fined for trespassing if you don't have a permit. While Chimney Rocks itself is NOT on Weyerhaeuser land, the access road in is. It is not recommended to drive past the gate without a permit.
We are working on trying to find/build an alternate access to this crag.
We are working on trying to find/build an alternate access to this crag.
Description
ADMIN NOTE: Due to Weyerhaeuser closing the access roads to Chimney Rocks, we are working on trying to find/build an alternate access to this fun crag. We've found a way in that would be shorter, and through public land, but a trail will have to be built. If you are interested in helping, please contact Micah Klesick.
Chimney Rocks is a cluster of pinnacles ranging from about 40-220' tall in the high country of the Silver Star Mountain area. They are a rather unique type of geological formation known as a breccia pipe, and are composed predominantly of a silica-cemented rock flour (somewhat physically similar to quartzite).
The climbing up here is characterized by about twenty-something "old-school" (read: sand-bagged) traditional routes from 5.6 - 5.9 on generally clean, solid rock. A good number of these routes are also R-rated for large runouts. There are now a few reasonably protected newer routes as well. See the NW OR Rock book for complete descriptions of the older routes. Summer is the best time to visit, as the area will typically see snow from about November through May or June.
The summit of the Central (highest) Pinnacle can be achieved by routes up nearly every side. Descend via a rappel from a fixed anchor down the East face. There is some uncharted bouldering in the area, plenty of new-route potential, and a fun cave area for a bivy between the two central pinnacles.
Anyone who may place bolts on a new route out here is encouraged to document them for posterity in the newly created "Chimney Rocks Fixed Protecton Log" kept with the summit register of the NW Pinnacle. Please be particularly observant of inhomogeneities and fractures in the rock up here when bolting. Have fun!
Chimney Rocks is a cluster of pinnacles ranging from about 40-220' tall in the high country of the Silver Star Mountain area. They are a rather unique type of geological formation known as a breccia pipe, and are composed predominantly of a silica-cemented rock flour (somewhat physically similar to quartzite).
The climbing up here is characterized by about twenty-something "old-school" (read: sand-bagged) traditional routes from 5.6 - 5.9 on generally clean, solid rock. A good number of these routes are also R-rated for large runouts. There are now a few reasonably protected newer routes as well. See the NW OR Rock book for complete descriptions of the older routes. Summer is the best time to visit, as the area will typically see snow from about November through May or June.
The summit of the Central (highest) Pinnacle can be achieved by routes up nearly every side. Descend via a rappel from a fixed anchor down the East face. There is some uncharted bouldering in the area, plenty of new-route potential, and a fun cave area for a bivy between the two central pinnacles.
Anyone who may place bolts on a new route out here is encouraged to document them for posterity in the newly created "Chimney Rocks Fixed Protecton Log" kept with the summit register of the NW Pinnacle. Please be particularly observant of inhomogeneities and fractures in the rock up here when bolting. Have fun!
Getting There
As of now, PERMIT is REQUIRED to use these directions: Take good gravel logging roads to the start of a 4x4 trail here: 45.705731° -122.203536°. 1.5 miles of hiking north along this trail will take you to Chimney rocks. Approximately 1.2 miles before the start of the trail at this point in the road: 45.698764° -122.221715°, is a blue gate that may or may not be open. Be warned that active logging in the area may prohibit your entrance. Proceed at your own risk.
Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Rocks
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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